Joe Cell

The "Joe Cell" was discovered & developed by an otherwise anonymous Australian named "Joe". It appears to be a quasi-electrolytic cell that somehow utilizes Zero-Point Energy or Orgone to generate a gas that is not hyfuel (the water is not consumed) that can run (or supplement the running of) automobiles and other engines, besides charging water for health applications, agriculture, etc. In April 2006, American experimenter Bill Williams was death-threatened by two unidentified gonzo punk jerkoffs who knew all about him and his family, etc... This event has of course sparked a resurgence of interest in the Joe Cell. Here is virtually all of the available data on the subject. Download it while you can. Proceed at your own risk.... 1. Cell Problems ~ 2. Starting a Cell ~ 3. Hybrid Cell ~ 4. Mark IV Joe Cell ~ 5. Negative Electricity ~ 6. Joe Cell for Beginners ~ 7. Cell Stages ~ Update #5: The Cell & Zero Point Energy ~ 8. Update # 6: The Joe Cell & the "Y-Factor" ~ 9. Update # 7: Stainless Steel & the Joe Cell ~ 10. Update # 8: Car Operation

Experimenter's Guide to the Joe Cell: ( )

Pure Energy Systems (

Death Threat
"Modified Joe Cell Extracts Aetheric Energy to Charge Water"
"How to Run Your Car on a Joe Cell"
Video : B. Williams Ford truck running on Joe Cell ( )

Google Search Results: "Joe Cell" (First 10 pages)



To again cover the issues related to getting a Joe cell to stage 3, by a ‘normal' patient individual and utilising readily available tools and materials.

Please note, most of the following material has been covered in my manual, there is very little additional data in this paper.

However, this material is presented in a different way so that some people may find it easier to comprehend.


On looking at the Web on subjects related to the Joe cell, two things crop up over and over. Namely, the incorrect use of information as supplied in my manual and the resultant cries of ‘I cannot get stage three, help!’. The cloud screens of misinformation, wild unsubstantiated guesses and sheer pie in the sky guess work does not help the above matter.

Please let me try to tell you as to how I see the cell information problem.

For obvious reasons, the expert on the Joe cell is Joe! However, as Joe has not published any material or authorised any photographs or videos, the information from the horses mouth is zero.

So what do we do? Well, for a start, we must be very careful that we do not listen to information from the other end of the horse. With Joe we have a couple of options:

1. Visit Joe and look, learn and listen. Great! many people have done that. Some actually have stayed with Joe for periods as long as 9 months! On leaving Joe, they were not able to replicate what Joe can do.

2. Ring Joe up on the phone and have a talk. Great as well. Unfortunately people have talked to Joe for hours on end, and although they heard plenty, were still not able to replicate Joe’s work.

Okay, what gives? How come all these thousands of visitors ( yes, that figure is correct as Joe keeps a visitors book ), that are keen and eager cannot duplicate what Joe has shown them or told them on the phone?

Six options:

1. Joe is a fake, the cell is a dud.

2. Joe is deliberately laying down a smoke screen.

3. All the visitors are stupid and cannot follow simple instructions.

4. Joe is a very special person and no one else has his special vibes.

5. The cell will only work at Joe’s place due to a ley line, a space warp or similar.

6. There is a set of special design procedures that Joe is not telling anybody about.

From the above list, and after spending 8 years full time on the subject, I can tell you that you can eliminate completely, option 1, 3 and 5.

Option 2 and 6 are a FACT! Option 4 is only partially true.

Where does the above analysis leave us?

The good news is, that if you know the special procedures required to make and start the cell and if you have the right ‘ polarity ’ when in close proximity to the cell, there is no reason why you cannot get a cell to stage 3.

Unfortunately life is not that easy, I still believe the Y factor is a variable to consider. As I am not privy to the Joe and Dennis secrets, I will assume that the polarity of the person is important at least in the early seeding stages of the cell.

Joe has stated that the location and the polarity of the person does play a role, Dennis is saying that he has the problem licked. I am saying that I do not know, thus I am playing it safe by warning you that if all else fails check your location and your polarity. Both those topics are covered in my manual if you require further information.

Of course when and if Joe and Dennis finally take pity on us, and lay their cards on the table, the whole Y factor issue should be resolved.

I am not holding my breath however, as anal retentives have reasons to be retentive.


As this paper is headed ‘ Cell Problems ’, I will not cover problems in the transfer stages or the modifications required to the ‘ consuming ’ device. I will concentrate on the cell only.

The above title is somewhat of a misnomer as I will describe how to make a stage 3 cell. If you do not follow the instructions, then you can pin point the problem to the step that you did not follow.

I am telling you what I know will work. If you decide to take short cuts with my suggestions, fine, but don’t come to me when your cell doesn’t work!

In the following sub-headings I have covered the locations where the problem may reside and I have suggested various options.

Location --- Strictly not cell related, so see my manual.

The individual --- As above.

Cylinders and case material --- As we are employing electrolysis, it would be logical to employ a material that is largely immune to the actions of the electrolysis process. After many tests, and including Joe’s recommendations, stainless steel is the logical choice. All other material like copper, brass and aluminium are interactive.

Joe has suggested food grade non-magnetic steel as the ‘ right ’ one. This advice is a little nebulous, but it points us to the 300 series of stainless steels and logically the choice is out of 304, 316 and 316L.

The dairy industry in Australia ( this is where Joe obtained his steel ) uses 304. Lately Joe has suggested 316 non-magnetic, food grade.

I personally have found very good results with 316L.

I would suggest to you that 304 or 316 are both fine, the points that are important is the non-magnetic aspects of the material and the neutrality to electrolysis.

The next stage is to find the stainless and make sure that we buy the correct type.

Where I am, I can simply go for a 20 mile drive and this will allow me to have a scrounge at several scrap metal dealers. Of course you may not be so lucky, you may have to buy it new, ouch.

A couple of years ago, I was involved in the testing of all possible stainless steels for a potential mass producer of the cell for the world market. Now this was a chance of a life time for me as I did not have to pay the many thousands of dollars that were required to purchase a length of each type ( including 316S designed for the nuclear industry, very beautiful material indeed ).

After 7 months of testing, I made some very valuable conclusions that I want to share with you.

* Most stainless has a seam along the entire length that is either a straight or spiral weld. The quality of this weld varies greatly as well as the uniformity of the thickness of the tube on the weld.

* It is very hard to find seamless stainless. This converts to very expensive, and you really do not need it.

* If the stainless is wrapped in a plastic sleeve or if it has the type number stamped on it at regular intervals, you will find that this type has a better seam weld.

* If you can see a darker weld colour along the seam, I would suggest that you test it thoroughly before you pay for it.

* If you can feel that the thickness of the tube is greater on the weld compared to the rest of the tube, again be very wary.

* If as you rotate the tube in your hand, you can feel that it is not truly circular, again be wary. You could use a pair of callipers or similar if you do not trust your feel. The tube should be circular to very close limits.

* I was unable to find a good tube in all the cheaper Asian imported material even though they had a mirror finish. You have been warned!

To put the above together, I would suggest that you only buy top grade stainless AFTER you have tested it with your magnet.

What magnet you say?

All Joe cell experimenters have a rare earth magnet on a piece of string or Nylon, sheesh.

The first thing that you learn about this magnet is that it loves to erase credit cards, so do the obvious, keep it well away from your wallet and similar.

I have made a keeper for mine, that joins the North and South poles together and this reduces the stray fields considerably whilst I carry it.

If you dangle the magnet on about a foot of line, you will notice that it will be gently attracted to some areas of the tube, but rather more to the seam. If it sticks to the seam and stays there supporting its own weight, that tube is NOT suitable! I don’t care if you are going to heat treat it or even if you get the Pope to bless it, give it a miss.

Mild attraction, is okay as long as there is no areas that have patches of strong attraction. Remember, I am talking about checking the whole damn length and not just doing a ten second swing to impress the guy in the shop. Yes, it is a pain in the butt and may take you at least half an hour ( for a whole cell set ) and by this time any staff member would have long left, leaving you with a questioning look. <g>

So to conclude this section, get the good grade and test it to make sure it is the good grade.

Making the Cell ---

This involves cutting, polishing and joining operations. Any of these steps may cause irreversible damage to your investment, so think about it.

Cutting can be performed with a bi-metal blade in a hacksaw, with an angle grinder and a metal cutting wheel or with a lathe. The secret is to keep the heat way, way down. If the cutting process will generate heat ( as with the angle grinder ), leave a ¼ inch spare in length and trim to size on a lathe.

Nice and slow with a bi-metal blade in a hack saw will do the job.

I would suggest that in all cases, the cylinders are finished to size on a lathe as this is the only easy method of assuring that all the cylinders will have two parallel and flat faces, and all tubes will be the same length.

The overall match in length is not that critical, a few thou here to there does not matter! On assembly you simply make sure that the tops are all level and the bottom length difference is not that critical.

The next step is the polishing. Before moving to that step again check your tubes for any extra magnetism, ALL OVER! It this has not changed, move on to the polishing.

The rules of polishing are simple, the smoother the better, the less heat the better.

The less the polish on the surface the less the efficiency of the cell, but it will still work.

A mirror finish inside and out is great, but I for one have better things to do in life, however if you have the tools and the inclination and the time go for it.

I spin my cylinders in a lathe and use a 360 grit emery cloth until all major scratch marks are removed and if you held a screw driver ( or similar ) right next to it you can see the reflection. At no stage are my tubes that smooth that I can use them as a mirror for shaving. Don’t laugh, I have seen tubes like that from others. Beautiful, but they did not work!

Make sure that you polish in a circular sweep ( around the tube ) and not up and down the length.

You do not want any criss-cross marks at all.

When you are happy with these two operations, move on. If you have used any high speed polishing method that generated heat then, yep, check them all over for a change in their magnetic effects.

The joints on the outer casings are super important and the source of MOST failures of the cell to go to stage three. As you can surmise, the cylinder to cone and the cone to outlet adaptor are the two joints that will stop the cell dead.

A weld at either of these spots will create a lovely ring of heavily magnetised metal and stop the cell dead from being able to transfer the ‘ force ’ to where you want it.

Have a real serious think here before you hit these areas with your arc welder designed for welding battle ships.

Unfortunately I cannot enclose pictures with this paper, but my manual has a few of the related photos but not enough to do justice to the subject.

I will have to work out some way of getting about 6o M/bytes of photos onto a suitable site. Anyway back to the subject at hand.

Joe and I recommend no welding at these critical areas. This makes it makes it much harder as far as construction is concerned, but it is the only 100% guaranteed method of not introducing a magnetic change at these critical areas.

The bottom joint to the flat base or cone or sphere is nowhere near as sensitive.

I have made over 30 cells and all are different. I have featured a cell in the manual, ( Old Trusty ) that breaks most of the above rules, there are always exceptions to rules as after all rules are made to be broken, WHEN you know what you are doing that is.

There are many ways of holding two pieces of metal at a butt joint without welding or brazing or even soldering.

What you want is a seamless transition of tube inner diameter to cone and then to your outlet. Many ways of doing this, and we have the great advantage that the joint is not under any great pressure and thus welding is not mandatory.

I will again stress that the less heat used on the joint, the greater is your guarantee of success.

In descending order of preference of a joining method,( the lower the better );

oxy. acetylene welding, oxy acetylene brazing, arc welding, Mig welding, soldering, cold welding ( chemical two packs ), Tig welding, threaded joint, press fit joint, butt joint with outer support sleeve, butt joint and Sikaflex, one piece cell casing.

From the above as you can see, the top joint is permanent and access should be provided via the bottom joint for maintenance operations.

The central bolt fixture:

The bolt, washers and nut must also be compatible material and also must not exhibit magnetic anomalies.

Whatever method you decide on to join the bolt to the inside of the one inch tube, please observe the following;

* The bottom of the bolt head must be at least 1/8 of an inch inside the tube.

* Do not weld the bolt to the tube, a press fit is the way to go.

* Make sure that there are gaps for water circulation in and out the bottom of the tube.

* Design your bolt fixture so that the neutrals are at least ½ inch off the bottom of the cell ( that is if you are using a flat bottom plate )

* Insulate the bolt body from under the bolt head to your inner exit washer. Nylon or similar type tubing is fine.

The insulators:

Many insulators have been tried, many insulators have failed!

If the insulator leaves a pitted or burned mark where it is wedged against the cylinders, it is shorting out, It is no good, throw it out! I am not talking about shorting out as in Ohms law and low resistance. I am talking about a shunt to a very high frequency field!


One of the greatest causes of cell failures is the insulators. The insulators have to be compatible with your cell design, the water and the chemicals that are in the water. I do not mean deliberate chemicals that you put in. I mean the chemicals that are already in there.

For example, the cell does generate ozone. Ozone mixed with air will make nitric acid ( reaction with the nitrogen ). Nitric acid is very chewy stuff.

I am sick to death of people saying that Joe does not use electrolyte. Yes, that is true, I also do not use electrolyte in some of my cells. However, Joe’s stream water is full of fertiliser from the adjacent farming and so his water does have electrolyser in it even though he does not add it himself.

Just think about it please, Joe can pass 25 amps at 12 volts through his cell! No electrolyser? Yeah right!

All natural water has chemicals in it, and this chemistry will reduce the resistance ( conductance ) of the water and thus increase the current flow.

Water that does not have electrolyte in it ( artificially made water ), has such a high resistance ,that at 12 volts, you would get hardly any current flow, very low electrolysis and thus no bubbles.

Bubbles mean ( in this instance ) electrolysis and electrolysis means current flow and current flow means chemicals!

Back to the insulators. <g> If the metal shows sign of corrosion at the insulator location, you are using the wrong insulators. Throw them away.

If the insulators have gone all slimy and or mushie, you are using the wrong insulators. Throw them away.

Some insulators that have ‘ worked ’ for me and others are;

* Red chemical rubber bottle stoppers. can make the water go red, I don’t like them.

* The early version of traffic counting air hose, the present one is useless.

* The black hose used for oxygen for welding. Must be the old type without the ribbing!

* Various type of glue sticks. Tend to be too soft.

* Various types of rubber lines as used in cars. beware, some are no good. Not worth the bother.

* The use of little mica washers on each side of the insulating rubbers. These are normally used as insulators for transistors when the are mounted on a heat sink. Far better to use the right insulators and thus not have to fiddle around with mica as well.

* Ebonite rod shaped to size. My preference.

* Glass marbles. Very hard to put in, but when in, they do a fair job.

* Silicone hose as used in hospitals and laboratories ( the clear stuff ). Works well although a little too soft.

* Sikaflex. Home made and Joe’s preference. Works as well but no better to ebonite in my cells.

If you get a cartridge of Sikaflex ( marine grade, white ) and allow the Sikaflex to cure in the nozzle, you can remove this plug and cut it up for a couple of insulators. I am sure that with a bit of imagination you can work out a better way of making a whole stick at a time.

When inserting the insulators, place them in three radial rows about 120 degrees apart and about a ¼ inch down from the top and bottom ends of the cylinders.

The Water:

The subject is covered in depth in my manual, so what more can I say that may help?

I must repeat, do not use tap water or any water that has chlorine, fluoride, alum, lime or similar additives in it. It will not work and will also cover your cylinders with oxides and thus stop the cell from ever going stage 3, guaranteed

I only use spring or rain water, or in desperation a water called Noble water and sold in supermarkets in Australia. The Noble water is guaranteed chemical free and it works to a degree but is a very slow starter and seems to die or as Joe say’s ‘ go off ’ quite easily.

I have no problems in getting a cell to stage three with rain or spring water.

My problems is keeping it at that stage.

Try an use fresh water and do not store it in the sun or in plastic containers. Imagine that you are going to drink it and treat it in that fashion. If you would not drink it yourself, why do you except the cell to like it?

Power Application:

The rules are simple, do not cook the cell, do not overcharge, do not use to much current.

When I wrote my manual, I tried to set some sort of standard that all cell experimenters could follow and thus we could all compare notes.

Hah, now that was wishful thinking!

The standard came from tests by Joe. For example, when he ran his cell on his son’s Escort, he had an ammeter in series with the cell and it was indicating 1.26 amps.

So, 12 volts and 1 amp seemed like a nice all round figure to use as a standard. However, as I soon found out, this information was translated in so many different rules and methodologies by all and sundry, that any attempt to maintain some sort of uniformity was a waste of time.

This must reflect normal human nature as we can see by simply looking at all the different standards in the audio and video fields to name a couple.

Since those days I have changed my recommendations to allow all people to do their own thing.

Simply stated, you should pass about a ¼ to q ½ of an amp through your cell with NO electrolyte. If you do not see some action with 2 minutes, turn if off and look for a problem.

I repeat, there is no point in going on, if it has not shown signs of action in 2 minutes, it never will.

HOWEVER --- and this is a very important fact --- The cell may behave differently every time you reapply the power. Only a stable cell ( fairly rare creature ) will behave the same way on each power reapplication.

To repeat the above, an unstable cell may produce different behaviours each time you reapply the power. A stable cell will start in the same mode each time.

Depending on the conductivity of the water, you may find that you will need up to 250 volts to get this ¼ to ½ amp current flow. I have found that generally 75 volts is a good ball park figure with my types of water.

Obviously if you want to use the cell in a car, you will have to play with the electrolyte as mentioned in my manual, as you have no control on the voltage ( about 14.9 volts is as high as you will get ).

On the power supply topic, please read my paper on negative electricity, as this is the requirement for the stage 4 cell. At this time , I have been unable to make one, and as Joe is not telling, it may take me a bit longer to come up with the design.

At the moment I am working on a Tesla switch ( Bedini two capacitor concept ) as a power supply for the cell. I will let you all know if I come up with something.

Cell Observation:

Some things to look for in a stage 3 cell:

* All cylinders should stay clean, on BOTH sides.

* The cell will ‘ remove ’ out of the water what it does not want . This ‘ scum ’ should be either at the top or bottom of the cell and not on the cylinders.

* You should filter this ‘ scum ’ out of the water and keep reusing the water that the cell is converting. Only top it up, do not replace it unless you are not getting anywhere with the cell.

* You should see very small bubbles rising from both side of the cylinders.

* The top surface of the water should develop an oily type film (surface tension). This will only occur if you keep the water at the right level.

The right level is meniscus height or just high enough water for the bubbles to freely flow on the total surface of the water. Obviously you should keep the cell level to achieve this.

* The cell should never get hot or even warm.

* On turning the power off, the tiny bubbles should form little islands that may be turning in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction or some one way and others the opposite way.

* The bubbles should not simply rise to the surface. You should see the tiny bubbles following eddies and meandering all over the place. For example they may be travelling in one direction between one set of neutrals and travelling the opposite direction in the next gap.

* When the cell is charged you will notice a North/South magnetisation in the vertical plane. This is normal and a good sign. On removal of the water this field should disappear.

The above is what I do and what I have observed with my stage 3 cells. You should do and see very similar results. If not, go through my points and see where the discrepancy is. That may be your problem.

Good luck and don’t give up, if I can do it so can you, my only trick is persistence. Stick with one cell until you are sure that it is faulty, there is no point in changing things just for the sake of changes.

The above cell does work and has worked for many. After you are familiar with the above basic cell, then and only then move into the construction of the specialised versions.

Learn to walk before you attempt to run, saves you from falling flat on your face.



To get the plates in ‘ equilibrium ’ ( as Joe calls it ).


According to Joe, both sides of the neutrals have to be in equilibrium. To achieve this, he drives the negative to the positive and the positive to the negative.

In the above, Joe’s use of the word drive indicates his observation of the bubbles and water formation as he manipulates the applied potential’s on the various cylinders, thus he is ‘ driving ’ them.


A longer term means of observing these ‘ potential’s ’ on the plates is observing the build up ( or lack thereof ) of an oxide or ‘ colour ’ on the surface of the plates.

As mentioned in my manual, the cylinders should stay clean on a working cell. The danger of this statement is, that a shorted or incorrectly functioning cylinder will also display this characteristic.

However, by the observation of the resultant bubbles, water forms and of course the cell function, you will easily distinguish between good and bad cylinders.


1. Connect your negative to the inner, central tube.

2. Connect your positive to the first neutral ( next tube ).

3. Shift the positive from the first neutral to the second neutral.

4. Continue this process until your positive is now on the outer tube ( or container of the cell )


A. --- Leave the potential on the tubes until you obtain the ‘ right ’ bubble production but no longer than 1 minute no matter what the outcome. If it does not ‘ work ’, look for problems elsewhere.

B. --- Clip your leads so that the negative connection is always in line , but as far apart as possible from the positive connection. For example, clip the negative to one end of the one inch tube and the positive to the diametrically opposite end of the two inch ( next ) tube.

C. --- You can swap and change the above sequence and polarities until you achieve the desired effect, BUT always end up with the negative to the central tube and positive to the outer.

D. --- The ‘ right ’ bubble formation is unfortunately an observational skill that comes with a lot of practice, and would be next to impossible to write in words.

For beginners, you will have to use the very crude method of igniting the bubbles to differentiate amongst the various gas types until you get the ‘ eye ’ to see.


This note is required at this time, as there seems to be quite a fair bit of disinformation ( deliberate or otherwise ) circulation on the Web.

Please read my lips, hear and listen, no matter if you live on the North pole, South pole or anywhere in between, on completion of start up, you must leave the negative connection to the middle of the cell, ( the most inner tube ).

Now there seems to be many ‘ advisers ’ recommending negative to the outer tube ( case ), as they get pretty bubbles, vortex actions and similar. That is all great, BUT do they have a working cell?

No, they do not, I can guarantee it, as you must have the negative to the central tube to do so.

I will give you a very short reason, so at least you will tend to believe me, but in reality you have free will and you can do what you like. I am merely an advisory sign, to be used as you see fit.

Electricity is always trying to destroy it’s dipole, it is constantly trying to eliminate the positive and negative potential differential. Magnetism on the contrary is forever trying to establish a North and South magnetic pole differential ( as far apart as possible ). This is an endless and balanced battle between electricity and magnetism that has been going on since the start of creation.

As a result of this ‘ battle ’, negative is a contractive energy and positive is an expanding energy. As we are trying to accumulate a force and thus create a ‘ frequency ’ with our cells, it is obvious ( to me at least ) that the contracting force should be inside and the expanding force on the outside. How else can you possibly draw anything in?

Reverse the potential’s and positive ( the expanding force ) in trapped in the middle of the cell by the contracting negative force. Not the way to go! No wonder that you have pretty signs of this battle. Similar to the sign ( smell ) that you get when you drive your car with your handbrake on.

Hybrid Cell

It has a 5" outer case but only 2" and 3" neutrals, and the negative cylinder in the centre of course.

The bubbles are good Stage 2 bubbles. This shot is taken 10 minutes after I took the power off. The cell had had one application of power (24 volts at .4 amp) for 90 seconds. That is right. One 90 second charge to get to stage2. Everyone can do this if the cell is built properly. The cell now only gets 12 volts for 3 minutes twice a day, and the water is filtered daily.

Hybrid? Mark 3 case, Mark 4 internals. 24 volts and no vinegar because my juvenile living water is just slightly alkaline.


Mark 4 Cell

These are the components of a typical Mark 4 orgone accumulating cell. Note the rubber insulator/spacers beside top dome with outlet

Please note the 1" cathode cylinder with ss threaded rod terminal/mounting bolt insulated in situ in bottom dome. As the top and bottom domes are 2" deep, the length of outer case (positive) is shortened to 8". The bottom level of the nest of negative and neutral cylinders will be 1/2" lower than the level of the 4" outer case when it is press fitted to the bottom dome.

All cylinders are seamless (no welds) and the domes have been machined for a very tight press fit onto 4" outer case. The top dome has also been machined for a tight press fit of the 90 degree 1" ss bend. The aim has been to build a cell without welds.



Before I wade into the subject proper, let me remind you that maybe your concept of electricity as taught in school may be a little suspect. For example, we talk of electric generators. This conjures the image of electricity being made. So if you imagine the normal scenario of a city using a remotely located power ‘ generator’, located at some distance from the city ( this may be many miles away ), it implies that the ‘ generated ’electron has to travel to the city to be utilised.

Further, as most power generators now utilise alternating current ( AC ), that means that the polarity is positive for one ½ cycle and negative for the other ½ cycle. We now have a problem.

We have the ludicrous situation where our poor electron ( after being generated ), leaves the country and starts it’s trip toward the big smoke. But due to distance, it does not get there as the voltage has been reversed ( for the other half cycle ) and our poor little traveller has to return to the power station! Thus no power gets to the city if the ‘ generator ’ is of a sufficient distance from the load ( or consuming device ).

Obviously something wrong with the generator theory somewhere.

Let me say from the outset, that electricity cannot be made or used up by man. Electricity is not a substance as such, and you may have to rethink some of the accepted views.

There is a ‘ magic ’ triangle that is made up of electricity, magnetism and gravity.

The Joe cell can tap into this triangle ( imagine the cell energy as being in the middle of the triangle ) and changing the balance of the ‘ sides ’ can thus have full control of transmutation, gravity and many other effects.

If you imagine the cell ‘ force ’ as a very high frequency AC voltage, ( NOT A GAS! ) you may realise that a power supply designed to ‘ fill ’ the cell with this type of energy would be a far superior way to go as compared to a conventional power supply or a standard car battery that has a far more meagre contribution of this type of ‘ electricity’.

Never-the-less, you can make a very good cell indeed without resorting to a special power supply.

Before I forget, let me again remind you that when Joe is talking about a negative field around the outside of the cell, he is not talking about placing your negative lead to the outer container. He is referring to ‘ true negative ’ or negative electricity, NOT to be confused with standard electrical potential’s of positive and negative.

Thus after finishing with your start up procedures on the cell ( see related paper ), ALWAYS finish with the negative lead connected to the central ( inner ) cylinder.

As said many times, there are no exception to this rule, on this planet at least. <g>


Nuclei with a positive charge and electrons with a negative charge has long been regarded as the

‘ norm ’ and is how present science see the world and the matter that it is composed of.

However, as we live in an illusionary world , reality is sometimes the direct opposite of what our far from perfect senses relay to us as concrete facts.

For example, we all ‘ know ’ that the railway lines do not really meet at the distant horizon, and we also ‘ know ’ that a city floating in the air is merely a mirage.

Thus we also ‘ know ’ that there is only one type of electricity, the normal one that we all use and have measured with test equipment ad nauseam.

But what if there are in actuality negative nuclei and positive electrons ( positrons )? Another parallel so called world, a mirror of all that we see as normal and thus ‘ fact ’. Yes, we would have atoms and the mirror anti-atoms, and these would form anti-molecules and finally anti-life. Exactly the same as we see normality. but simply a mirror image.

Of course this would also apply to electrical charge, magnetism, etc.

Before you say that all this is old news and that I should come up to speed, let me say that I am aware of the particles made by particle accelerators such as at CERN in Geneva, and yes, I am also aware of the use of positrons as in the technique called PET ( positron emission tomography ). And I have read the works of P. A. M. Dirac and his famous quantum theory calculations in 1929.

Yes, it was Dirac who postulated that particles and antiparticles have identical masses but opposite charges.

When these little fellows get to meet, they annihilate each other and as a result charges are neutralised and the masses are converted to energy.

Please remember this fact for my theory section at the end of this paper.

This energy can be X-ray photons, gamma rays or mesons.

Whilst on the subject and to put some perspective to the energies involved, let me quote you an example. The rate at which solar energy ( solar radiant power or luminosity ) reaches the Earth is about one kilowatt on each square meter. This is very useful and useable power indeed, and also goes to show the very poor efficiency of present day solar panels.

Back to the subject. What has all this to do with the cell and who really cares?

Please be patient, a brick wall is erected a brick at a time. <g>


So, what do we know about negative electricity in relation to the Joe cell?

Of course we have Joe’s words on the topic as relayed to us by his many visitors, but as this is the talk of the ‘ inventor ’, we really require some other ‘ proof ’ that is independent of possible bias or deliberate inaccuracy.

At this point, let me remind the reader that Joe has not put one word on paper ( over a 10 year period ), or allowed one photograph to be taken ( not from lack of asking by myself and others ), that may be used to help resolve the dilemma.

On the contrary, Joe has gone to great lengths to hide his ‘ secret ’, by evading the topic or by giving nonsensical answers to questions and sometimes even laying down deliberate smoke screens to further confuse the issue. He obviously has his reasons and I respect his right not to share his discoveries with us. God bless you Joe.

In passing, the videos that are in circulation are poor quality videos made by amateurs for friends, and that have been circulated without Joe’s consent.

As such it has been left to a few to try to convert the crumbs that fall from Joe’s table into a loaf of bread that can feed the rest of the world.

As mentioned at the start, positrons are a fact of life in the scientific community, but of course the scientific community will not recognise the Joe cell. In fact talk about the cell in scientific circles will guarantee a belly laugh, scorn or simply result in you being ostracised and treated similar to a person who is reporting on a UFO sighting.

On the other hand, things are very different amongst the clandestine research scientists, but then of course these dudes are not going to come out in public, put their arm around you and declare on national TV that you are on the right track. Sorry, life was not meant to be easy.

Unfortunately I have to resort to various ‘ proofs ’ that result from many experiments performed by ‘ pseudo scientist ’. This is meant to be a derogatory term as used by the ‘ certified experts ’ as a description of thousands of honest and dedicated self taught individuals that devote their whole lives to a radical project, ( usually with no help or money ) but usually with very noble aims.

My favourite and a very enlightened individual whose work ( like Tesla ) has not received the accolades that it deserves is:


Born in Boston in May 19, 1871. He started experiencing annual periods of illumination. During a 39 day period of illumination in 1921, he believed he received the secrets of the universe from God, which he was asked to share with the world. In 1948 he married Lao Russell, and together they founded the University of Science and Philosophy for the purpose of spreading these teachings throughout the world.

Russell passed away in 1963 and Lao in 1988.

As we know ( if you believe in the subject that is ), there has been many avatars walking this earth and spruiking all forms of truths and otherwise. However, there is a great scarcity of individuals that have been told the scientific facts by ‘ God ’ and as such we should pay very careful attention to what they have to say.

That is of course after first proving to the best of our abilities that the individuals are not deluded and merely not taking their medication.

From what Russell has demonstrated by deed and word, I for one am a very serious listener to his scientific views. Russell has written many books on the topic and as far as the cell research is concerned, negative electricity has a very good ( and very difficult to comprehend ) write up in his book " The Universal One ".

Some of his thoughts on the different types of electricity.

* Positive electricity is the generative electricity.

Positive electricity is that state of motion in which electricity dominates magnetism.

Positive electricity is that state of motion in which centripetal force dominates centrifugal force.

* Negative electricity is the radiative energy.

Negative electricity is that state of motion in which magnetism dominates electricity.

Negative electricity is that state of motion in which centrifugal force dominates centripetal force.

* Electricity and magnetism exist as separate appearances only when opposed. In non-opposition they disappear, they become one.

* Electricity and magnetism are not two separate forces, nor are they two separate substances. They are merely two different dimensions of motion. They belong solely to motion and not to substance.

* Neither are positive and negative electricity two kinds of electricity. Positive and negative electricity are but two differing potential’s of the same force which must move in opposite directions.

As I said, Russell has written many books and it would take a life time of very serious reading to fully comprehend what he is trying to pass to us. I am only relaying on to you sufficient to formulate a theory that I hold.


If you have been in the ‘ alternative energy ’ scene for a while, you will no doubt be aware of many, many experimenters working on many devices.

I will not bore you with a long list of experimenter’s and their related research.

You can very easily look up your favourite experimenter by simply using the Web and a suitable search engine. Please realise that all you read is not fact and that there are a lot of grey areas, including in what you are reading now. Sorry, I am doing my best, but I am fallible. <g>

You can use Nikola Tesla, John Bedini, John Searl, Floyd Sweet, Robert Adams and Edwin Gray as representative examples of the inventors that I am talking about.

However, you will notice that some peculiarities as displayed by the cell are common to many of these devices. To name a few, the device goes cold when operating, the device shows magnetic anomalies in the near vicinity of the experiment, the device may be surrounded with a blue or pink glow, the device will build up a very strong ‘ electric ’ charge and the device may display some form of gravity anomalies.

Different cells made by many different experimenter’s, and located in various parts of the world, have displayed some or all of the above anomalies.

For the purpose of this short paper, I will stick to the electrical portion of the cell anomalous behaviour.


I will place here some points that you may want to consider. As usual it is early days in this research and as usual I will have the people in the know ( like Joe ) laughing their heads off at my puny attempts, but at least it is an attempt and it may seed a far better idea that you may have.

Please share it, do not sit on it like Joe and many other selfish individuals.

* A high frequency cell generated or accumulated force will create a magnetic field. This is easily proven with a compass or a magnet on a piece of string. The cell’s stainless steel tubes that you did such a good job of testing for magnetism, will now have a very strong North South field in the vertical axis. And this field is not in the steel, for when you pour out the water the cell will go back to ‘ normal ’.

From the above, I assume that the resonant field ( and thus this magnetism ) is a function of the resonant cavity of which the water forms an integral part, ie. no water, no magnetism.

In simple terms we have what is commonly called a ‘ tank circuit’ and this tank circuit is generating a unique magnetic field that is DIFFERENT from a magnetic field created by a steady DC ( direct current ) as may be created by a normal car battery.

Tesla referred to it as a ‘ hysterical ’ magnetic field. As referred to hysteresis and not to somebody that has lost the plot. <g>

* The magnitude of the above hysterical field is the unbalancing of the three force triangle towards the gravitational effects and explains the Joe cell gravitational anomalies ( to me at least ).

To rephrase the above, if the balance of the two forces ( electricity and magnetism ) is upset or if you could nearly remove one of them, gravity as we call it would be negated.

Walter Russel stated that the electro-magnetic process of mass formation ( centripetal ) is balanced by the attractive power of electricity and the dissipating ( centrifugal ) repelling power of magnetism.

* Please remember that our teacher is Nature. Nature does her tricks with simple elegance and thus is using the proper energy efficient tools. As you can see by the above example we only have to upset the electro-magnetic balance and enormous power is at our disposal.

The Joe cell can do this and you have to respect the logic of some of the individuals who are hell bent on keeping the methods secret from the rest of us.


As most people are interested in running an engine on the cell, let me show you the balance of the two forces, again with thanks to Walter Russell.

Intake stroke. Compression stroke

Negative, expanding. Positive, contracting

Negative, cooling system Positive, heating system

Negative, increasing volume Positive, lessening volume

Negative, discharging Positive, charging

Negative, opening spirals Positive, closing spirals

Negative, lowering potential’s Positive, increasing potential

Negative, radiating Positive, generating

What am I on about? Let me tell you.

When a piston is at the top of the compression stroke, the compressed air molecules are ‘ charging ’ and require an ‘ increase in potential ’ or in other words, they need additional electrical charge or as Joe like to say, more electrons.

These are supplied to a large degree from the cylinder walls. But, let us assume that the Joe cell has somehow removed all ‘ spare ’ electrons from the engine block. What now? Where do you get them from, as surely you must?

Would it be possible for the compressed air to behave differently and maybe contribute some negative ( mirror ) electricity ( as in the science section above )? We know as a scientific fact that the annihilation of the two different particle masses ( the normal and the mirror ) contribute energy.

This resultant energy may cause an expansion of the captured air charge and thus result in the ‘ push ’ that pushes the piston down. Why not?

On this line, Russell stated that a sudden lowering of potential would cause an explosion, a flame or a luminous streak. Good enough for me, you of course can make you own assumptions.

Again on the same subject, please remember that Joe stated that a spark plug ignition was not required, only the electro-magnetic pulse at the right time from the car coil ( a crude form of a Tesla coil ).

Remember my theory ( like hundreds of others ) is an unproven fact, and you are more than welcome to modify and improve on my humble contribution. That is called science.


This article is here to make you think, comprehend and maybe lead you to some answers.

I feel very comfortable with the notion that the Joe cell ( and similar devices ) utilises a form of energy that is the same ( in many ways ) as a mysterious energy that has appeared for many other experimenters and equally baffled them.

In all cases, the energy ‘ appeared ’ due to a manipulation of electricity and magnetism.

I also believe that the source of this energy is present everywhere in abundance, and is the only energy that we should be using, and is our only hope in saving mankind and Mother Earth.

I also think that the Joe cell is the simplest and most elegant way of accumulating and utilising this great gift from our Creator. I have dedicated my life to this quest, and I feel very humble in the Lord allowing me to be a very small player in the experimenting with, and the resultant sharing of my research with my fellow brothers.

My last word on the subject is that unless we all share the work and thus become a force to be reckoned with, the few but extremely powerful moguls will always keep us in bondage and ignorance.



"It Works for Me"




Being a completely non-scientific type, and having spent many, many enjoyable and sometimes confusing hours watching Joe’s video and reading the books by Barry and Alex, I thought it just might be helpful to new builders to document my experiences.

My advice to you is to watch that video, and read both those books, and of course, read what I have to say. It may not be of any use to you at all, but it might.

This is an account of what works for me.

I particularly wish to thank Alex and Barry for their work, and Joe for his and for passing on the wonderful information. And there is one other person I wish to thank. Guess who?

Corpus Magnus

Before we get into the real guts stuff, some of you may get a wee bit confused. If so email me. Please keep it short and precise. I would like an intro as to who and where you are. I think that is fair, don’t you? [email protected]

This is it. This is for me and for you. This is for all the people who just want to get on with doing it. Doing what? Building those funny little things that people call Joe Cells.

Now let’s get it right, right from the start. What you are going to build is not a Joe cell. It is an orgone, or Life-force, accumulator that uses water as a medium. Joe’s cells are Joe cells, mine are Ren cells, and you will have your own. Mary cells, Dave cells, whatever.

I need to point out now, that as you proceed with this little adventure of yours, you are going to discover some rather amazing things. Amazing things about water and weather and orgone and aether, and stainless steel and rubber and magnets and electricity. But most of all, you are going to discover stuff about you. You will also win new friends and sometimes you will wish you hadn’t. You may have unexpected guests on your computer or in the sky close by, who are unwelcome. You should hope for a visit from someone you do not want to see. You are embarking, my friend, on the voyage of a lifetime.

Come on, let’s get to work. I am going to show you how I do it. I build cells as close to the way Joe does as I know how. I build the Mark 3 (5 inch) cell and the Mark 4 (4 inch) cell.

Cones and Kegs:

I read Barry’s book first and decided that I needed a beer keg and those big 10 inch stainless steel cones that are used in milk factories. Well I got the keg but never did get the cones. I did end up with the smaller cones (5.5 inch) from dairy farm milk/cream separators. So being one who is full on most of the time I set up my gear. The beer keg was too big so I scored an old stainless steel hot water urn, the type they had in the smoko room at work before those horrible coffee machines became popular. Anyway, a few modifications, like ripping the guts out of it and plugging up the holes. Filled it full of water and it leaked. Not to be foiled, I found a 20 litre plastic bucket and put the whole shebang in. It had taken a lot of fiddling to get the cones spaced just right around a piece of PVC pipe. Joe uses agricultural pipe, the drainage stuff. For the life of me I could not find any small enough to go inside the smaller cones. But where there is a will there is a way.

There is a drawing of the cone/keg set-up in Barry’s book, and because I have trouble drawing on these computer machines, I will not attempt to replicate it. My cone set-up is modified to suit readily available hardware. I have been able to do away with the 3 rubber spacers between each pair of cones and this new method makes the rig much quicker to dismantle, clean and reassemble.

As you can expect I could hardly wait to hook it on to a car battery. So I didn’t. Wait, that is. Yep, hooked it up and watched and waited and watched and waited. I did this for a long time. The books and the videos don’t say anything much about waiting. I will tell you. Impatient blokes like me actually can learn to wait, and it hurts when you first start.

I remember watching the video and there is Joe in the shed with the beer keg full of big cones and water, a flick of the switch on his electro rectifier something or other machine and then he chucks a match in and jumps as some gas explodes. Well I always did like matches. My dear old Dad used to reckon there was pyromania in the family, I reckon there was some arson about. Well I waited some more and watched some more and finally I saw tiny little bubbles and a smoky sort of cloud in the water.

After a while there was some brown flaky stuff starting to float around and drift to the top. I let it stay there. Hours later it was thicker and there were bubbles trapped in it. That was when I got match happy. Just could not resist it. Well I blew up some bubbles that I thought would be loud but weren’t. I blew up some that I thought would fizz but instead they cracked, some rather loudly. I blew up bubbles in the centre, in the middle, along the outside. I went through a lot of matches and a lot of time waiting for more bubbles to return, just to explode them. I did as Joe does and learned to take the scum off without losing the charge from the water. I would leave the thing alone for a couple of days sometimes and come back. I did it for months and enjoyed myself immensely.

In the meantime I also learned that it is not too hard to burn the cones, and the water. A few times I have forgotten to take the power off to the unit and it produced some really vile looking green and inky black muck below the layer of brown sludge. I am talking about three distinct layers over half an inch thick each. And lovely clean water underneath.

I have learned that cleaning the gear often does not hurt. In fact I did find that the more often it is cleaned, and the more it is used in shortish bursts, the better the unit works.

And then one day I poked a match into a tiny little bubble, out by the edge, all by itself. When that went off there was an extremely loud "crackthud" sound and all the brown scum was blown off the surface of the water. All over the roof of the shed, one of the walls, and me. My ears had popped, implosion, duckz gutz. Naturally I was frozen in place. My lady wife and young blokes came running, "Dad, Dad, are you alright?" And there I am still standing there with a dead match in my hand and stupid grin on my face. Oh yes, friend, I was very alright.

As time went by I was able to get the water to a stage where I could get those sounds nearly every time. It was about then that I noticed the weather seemed to effect the speed of charging and also the types of sounds I could get. I have been able to detect five different sounds. Some explosions have bursts of orange flame, some blue, some bright golden yellow, and some have no flame detectable with the naked eye. Some are lightening speed and some just seem to make a sheet of blue across the entire surface of the water. I also began to notice that clouds could come out of nowhere when I was charging, and sudden wind gusts.

Yes, charging water and exploding bubbles was fun, and time consuming.

But I found out that I had been wasting time. For a bloke with one or two cells, a cone/keg rig is not essential, in fact it is really only good for having fun with, being a bit of a larrikin etc. It can also show the changes water goes through when electricity is applied in certain ways. Nice to have, but not essential, an option for you.


Well back to the story. So you want to know about cells. Wonderful things, and so many different ideas as to what constitutes a good cell.

The purpose of having a cell is to charge water to a certain state. By charge I do not mean getting it to a stage where we are producing gallons of gas, far from it. The purpose of a cell is not to produce gas. Gas is a by-product of the process. Gas bubbles can be, and are, used to identify the state of the charge of the cell and the water. We do not want too much gas. That is for the folks who can’t get a car to run on the Life-force. The charging process will provide enough gas to do what we want. More on that later.

Accompanying this manual is a drawing at the back of the Mark 4. The Mark 3 is almost identical. The only difference is that the Mark 3 has one extra neutral cylinder (pipe or tube) and is therefore an inch larger in diameter. It is also more expensive to build, harder to install in a car, heavier, and takes a lot longer to charge.

Joe intended the Mark 4 cell to be filled with water charged in the cone/keg rig. I have done it once or twice but no longer bother. A properly built Mark 4 cell is extremely capable of charging it’s own water, and in fact seems to prefer to do it that way.

It is my opinion, and not verified, that each cell develops it’s own frequency. And I also believe that each cone/keg rig has it’s own frequency. Why cause possible problems by adding water that has been charged in a keg and may be at a different frequency to what the cell will try to get to on its own?

Problems are to be avoided. Your own cell technology needs to be kept simple until you are way along the track. Too many blokes never build cells because they get bogged down in the theory. Just build your cell. The theory can come later. I don’t worry about what other people think of my methods, neither should you. OK, a scientist may well have good reason to say that I go about things backwards. But that is only from his perspective. From my perspective, and because I have no idea about science, my way of doing things is logical. If it turns out that the cell works, why bother about knowing all the theory.

Incidentally, I have not had a scientist tell me that I do things backwards. I did have a CSIRO scientist indicate that he was puzzled that I had so little knowledge of the science involved. But he also said that science does not recognize orgone as a valid subject, so he could not have known anything about it either. Caused me to wonder where he was coming from.

I have had another scientist tell me I work by intuition. Sounds fair to me. Thanks Alex.

So, my advice to you is to build a Mark 4 cell, don’t bother with a cone/keg rig unless you feel like playing with matches.

I would like to reiterate, a Mark 4 cell is not only capable of charging it’s own water, it actually seems to prefer water that is charged in and by itself.

I believe that when we charge water in a cell, over a period of time the stainless steel gets accustomed to being tickled by a trickle of electricity and actually comes to like it. And the stainless steel somehow develops a form of "memory".

When you build your own cell and are ready to start charging, you had better get ready to start watching. Watch for bubbles around the top of the smallest pipe. This centre pipe is the negative. It is also called the cathode. That is where you are first going to see bubbles.

The first time you hook a car battery to your cell you will most likely have to wait a minute, even longer maybe, before you see any bubbles at all. However, as your cell gets used over a period of time with lots of short applications of battery power, you will notice that even with new water the bubbles will begin to appear more quickly. My trusty old Mark 4 produces bubbles in new water in less than 10 seconds, sometimes in 2.

What about building a cell? OK, I will get on to that now.

Read on.


I prefer to use 316 L stainless steel, and seamless if at all possible. But for starters, use anything you can get your hands on, just get started.

The first thing I really do need to explain is "cost". There is a lot of talk about cost. I have received numerous emails from people saying they are wanting to build a joecell and will get to it as soon as they have some money. Money? How much money? I’ll tell you in a while.

Back to my cells. I built a Mark 4, because I had the bits. I built it and started charging it just to see if a Mark 4 would do the same thing as a Mark 3 was designed for.

There is also a lot of talk about using recycled stainless steel from scrap yards. I did that too. In fact my first cell was made out of scrap; it was as rough as guts and it cost me ten dollars. It was a combination of the Mark3 and the Mark 4. It had a 5 inch outer casing. That outside casing is your positive, or anode. But you know that because you have already looked at the plans at the back of the manual. And if you haven’t done that yet, then maybe you had better do it now.

Getting back. Inside the outer casing was the cathode (-) and two neutrals. The cathode was 200 mm long, not 8 inches, 200 mm long and an inch in diameter. Because that is what I had. The first, or inner neutral was also 200 mm and 2 inches dia, but the outer neutral had horrible jagged bits on the bottom, was 5 inches long on one side and 7.5 inches long on the other. It had a diameter of 3 inches. In theory, and according to the books it could not work. Heh heh heh. But it did, sort of.

I had rammed a stainless steel bolt up into the bottom of the cathode. That bolt can be a mounting bolt to your vehicle, but more importantly for now it is the negative terminal into the cell. It must be insulated from the positive outer casing, and it must be watertight where the bolt passes through the bottom of the case. You will end up trying all sorts of things hoping to insulate that bolt and seal the opening. You may use combinations of things. You may get flash and have a custom-built bolt made, with flanges on it and specially machined insulators etc. Friend, that sort of silly business is overkill. I use rubber that I ripped out of wrecked cars at the local dump. There are beaut bits with holes in them that you can find in engine compartments. I have used bits of old inner tube and pieces of electrical conduit. If your bolt is the right diameter you may be able to use the white plastic (or PVC or nylon) olives that are used in copper pipe fittings. Try anything, try everything. Just do it.

Let me stress. With cells the major outlay is time. The hardware is not expensive unless you go high tech. I like to do it as cheaply as possible, because I have to.

I had come to believe that nice new stainless steel pipe was expensive. I thought I could not afford it. So in the end I priced some. I also found out that it pays to shop around. It pays to shop around because some stainless steel merchants sell it by the metre, others will sell it by the inch. Shop fitters who build commercial kitchens can be helpful, so can plumbers who do industrial work. Befriend a sheet metal worker, a lathe man.

It pays to look at what you want to build and what you can afford. I am very fortunate in that I have two very good mates who have also started building cells. Both these blokes have donated hardware to the cause. The major financial expense is the last one. That is good. It allows you the time to save up for the good bit that goes on top, or it allows you the time to decide to go low-tech, just to see if it works, and to save the bucks.

Most of my cells are all hand built. The books say get the materials lathed. Well that’s fine if you live in the city. It also means more dollars unless you can find a friend of a friend who has a metal lathe.

Me? I use a hacksaw with new blades (that’s flash), a file, and wet and dry sandpaper.

It is important to get the ends of the pipes cut off flat, no ups and down, cut flat so that when the pipe is sitting on a flat surface it stands straight up in the air. No leaning towers of Pisa please.

A hint for the hacksaw jockeys. To get a line around the circumference of the pipe, wrap a piece of paper around the pipe. Make sure there are no overlaps. The result is a mark that will yield a 90 degree cut. Now I usually mark the pipe with a ballpoint, but you could use a spray can of paint if you wished. When you start cutting, don’t, repeat, do not, try to cut straight through. Sure as eggs you will run off line and end up with a horrible mess. What I do is just start gently sawing on the mark as I slowly rotate the pipe. Keep rotating as you keep cutting, then when the end drops off, lightly file off any jagged little bits, not forgetting to clean up inside the pipe where the saw cut will have pushed a wafer thin amount of stainless. I use a small chain saw file for this and finish with a few swipes of wet and dry.

Tools required:- hacksaw and blades, flat file, chain saw file, wet and dry sandpaper.

Now, the bottom. We have to have a bottom on the cell. There are cells with flat bums, others have domes and some have cones. I use flat bottoms because they are cheap, except for the original with the jagged bit. It came from a scrap yard and was a thin piece of 5 inch pipe with domed ends welded top and bottom. It had a piece of brass rod brazed or whatever they call it on to the centre of one domed end. I think this gizmo may have been a float of some sort.

I weld a flat round plate of stainless steel onto the outer case for a bottom. I use 316 L stainless electric welding rods with an ancient arc welder. This is not the preferred option, but it works for me.

That flat plate for the bottom. It might be helpful if I mention that it is a good idea to drill the hole in this before you weld it. First you will need to know the size of the hole you want. It has to be big enough to take your bolt plus whatever you are going to use for an insulator. And please, try to make sure the hole is in the centre of your disc. I have one that I drilled with my Makita, it is a quarter of an inch off centre. It still works, but it annoys me to know it is not as good as it could be. Fair dinkum, go to a small engineering shop, tell the bloke what diameter hole you want drilled in the centre, and 5 minutes later you are on your way home five bucks lighter.

That same bloke can cut your pipes to length, nice and square. He is also quite capable of doing any machining you need for your top. He can make press fittings from a dome or cone to the case. Get a quote off him, see if you can afford it. It can save you the time and give you a better result.

Time to wop it all together. Don’t worry about the top if you haven’t got it yet. You still have time, weeks of it, maybe months. Look at a set of plans. The ones from Barry’s book or the one at the end of this.

Now you are going to need some insulator/spacers to go between the pipes. Let’s get a bit professional here and call the pipes cylinders.

I used bits of car heater hose to start off with, then corks, and have finally settled on old oxy/acetylene hose. It is a little thin for my cell so I cut off little bits of timber dowel and ram them up the holes in the hose. This makes them nice and solid, and it works for me. Fancy that.

You should have cut that hose some where around 10 mm, long and you will need three for the top and three for the bottom for each gap between the plates. Naturally you will not want any for the bottom between the outside neutral and the positive case. The bolt will hold the cathode in the centre and you wouldn’t have been able to get the spacers in the bottom anyway.

When fitting the spacers, fit them about half an inch below the tops and above the bottoms of the plates and try to keep them all at around 120 degrees, in line with each other for aesthetics.

Now plonk it in the case and insulate it and waterproof it. Please, please try to waterproof it by mechanical means, not goo. Use rubber.


The next step is getting the right water. That’s what I said, the right water. Ideally you will find a nice spring out in the country. A place where water bubbles up out of the ground. Another good source is up near the headwaters of a nice clean creek. Where the water swirls and dances and gurgles around rocks, maybe down a waterfall or a series of cascades, an area where there are still lots of trees.

You want unpolluted water, and it does not matter if a cow has pooped in it, or if there is something dead in it. That is organic, and that is alright. It is chemicals that need to be avoided. Fertilizer, yuk, but that does not necessarily mean that the water is no good. If you live in the country you will know where to start looking. If you are a townie you can take the opportunity to have a weekend away camping in a national park or state forest in the mountains. Take water containers. Glass is best. Old flagon bottles with corks or rubber bungs are good. Be inventive, seize the opportunity, get the family involved and enthused. Start that now. Anyone who is regularly going to be in your car needs to get involved and enthusiastic now.

Your water has to be alive. It should have a bond with the earth, with the Life-force that causes this earth and everything and everybody on it to stay alive. Reich called this "orgone". I call it the Life-force, Alex calls it the Life-force. I got the name from him. I got a lot of good stuff from Alex. I also got his friendship, very, very precious.

Water. Rain water will charge but it will not hold the charge, so forget it. Tap water, about the same. We all think of rain water as being pure and fresh. But friend, it can have chemicals in it. And it has been out of touch with the earth. The bond has been broken. That is the important thing to remember. The bond has been broken. The same goes for bottled water. Even if it says it is bottled spring water it is likely useless, and old and dead. Get the real stuff, living water. Now where have I heard "living water" before?

So, you are back with your water. Get your cell up on a bench. What name have you given the cell? Got to have a name. The cathode bolt should be poking out the bottom of the case. Get a piece of old inner tube, cut a small hole in it for the bolt to protrude through. This rubber is an insulator. You will have to mount your cell so you can easily and quickly get your electrical lead off the cathode. The top of the cell needs to be low enough to allow you to see down inside the cell, and watch what is happening.


Make certain the tops of the cathode and the neutrals are all level with each other before you start charging. For charging you can use a car battery or a battery charger or leads from a battery that is connected to your charger. If you do not have an amp meter, an old style battery charger with an amp meter built in will tell you what current the cell draws.

Before I forget, if you are charging with a battery charger, when you turn it off make sure to remove both leads from the cell, otherwise the cell may lose it’s charge.

Now just add water. Fill to just below the level of the tops of the cathode and neutrals. Half a mm is just about right. OK? Ready? Hope you have your skinny home made set of jumper leads handy. Connect the negative at the battery or charger to the cathode bolt, and the positive to the top lip of the cell. You don’t have a top on it yet. Now watch.

Within a minute you should be seeing tiny little bubbles rising to the surface between the cathode and the first negative. That is electrolysis, the very first stage in charging. Any dill can do this. Now power off. I only give a Mark 4 cell 3 minutes power at a time. After the first 3 minutes I am quite happy to charge again for 90 seconds every hour or so. But that is the way I do it and other people prefer to charge at a more sedate rate. If you apply power for longer than that you can expect to get a coating of brown muck on the surfaces of the cylinders. That will mean dismantling and cleaning and starting all over again.

I add about a quarter to half a cup of generic white vinegar to my water. It makes the water more conductive and helps to keep the metal surfaces and the water cleaner for longer.

After several applications of power, you will begin to notice some changes. If you watch you should see the water level begin to rise up over the tops of the cylinders. You should also be able to see small bubbles forming and adhering to both sides of the cylinders. This is as it should be. You may notice what looks like tiny little tidal waves racing around between the cylinders. And no doubt you will have also noticed some brown flakey bits coming up with the bubbles. You can wipe them off with a paper towel, just keep your fingers out of the water. Fingers in the water will discharge it.

At some stage you will realise that your water is dirty. That is normal. Filter it. I use 2 litre fruit juice bottles for funnels. Just cut the bottom off and place it over one of those big glass half kilo coffee jars or something similar. Inside the funnel you put screwed up or folded up paper towels or coffee filters. Now run the water through. You may have to do this a dozen times. The particles are fine but as the paper towel becomes saturated the holes in the paper get smaller.

Get your filtering done in less than an hour. Remember that water is partly charged. Keep your fingers out of it. Don’t lose the charge.

After filtering and powering up again it is not uncommon to notice grey/brown flakes floating around in the newly filtered water. This has really worried me in the past. Lately I have found an answer, at least it is working for me at the moment. I ripped up one of my old cotton T-shirts. I used a quarter of it at the bottom of the funnel and the paper towels on top. It stopped the flakes. I suspect those flakes were tiny paper fibres, and that when the water was charged up again, they expanded.

Now about that T-shirt. It had been a faithful old thing, much loved and much worn. It was part of me and I was part of it. When I tore it up it was a bit smelly with my perspiration. I was going to write sweat, but thought, nope, they don’t want to read that. What has a smelly old T-shirt got to do with it? Y factor. I was in that T-shirt, now I am in the cell

As you continue with the charging and filtering, you should notice that each time you clean your water the cell seems to be responding a little more quickly. And you will also notice that the bubbles are getting bigger. And you will hopefully know by now that some of those bubbles will remain on the top of the water overnight. Now if you decide to check your cell you will need to leave it unpowered for at least 24 hours. Take note of what the bubbles look like half an hour after you take the power off and then compare that with what you have 24 hours later. Hopefully most of the bubbles will still be there.

You will have noticed at the beginning of the charge process, (how long ago was that now) that on the first few power ups, mist or clouds of minute bubbles wafted across the top of the cell, up to about 4 inches above the water. And as time went by that stopped happening and you saw the surface of the water begin to rise and yet you could still easily see the meniscus between the cylinders. And eventually the water broke over the tops of the cylinders and now bubbles are getting trapped. They no longer launch themselves out of the water. They remain trapped. This indicates an increase in surface tension. This indicates that something is happening to the molecular structure of the water, or for those game to think about it, the atomic structure of the atoms that make up the water molecule.

Now that change in structure is caused by something. Electricity from your battery running through your cell and through the water is changing the structure of the atoms and is creating frequencies. When your cell is at about the right frequency, the cell is charged to stage 3., or conversely, when the cell is at stage 3, a certain frequency has been reached. And it appears that stage 3 is as far as you can charge a cell. However there is the beginning of stage 3 and there is the deeper stage 3.

With all charging it pays to watch what is going on. Sometimes, even at stage 3 it is helpful to remove the bubbles so you can look for the cell’s pulse.

No, I am not joking, at stage 3 there will be a pulse. Some people are supposed to be able to see pulses in between all the cylinders. I only ever see them between the cathode and the first neutral. When the pulsing first starts I see 12 small areas where it looks similar to when you put a hose into a drum of water, with the end of the hose under the water level and pointing up. Now turn the tap on and adjust the hose so the water from the hose is just making the surface of the water burble. You will notice how the water from the hose seems to roll over on itself and drop to the bottom of the drum. That is what a pulse in a cell looks like, with a packet full of ever so small bubbles. Please do not confuse this pulse with electrolysis surge, they do look similar.

When I first get these pulses they come at the rate of about two per second in all pulse areas. Usually in the next charge that pulse rate has decreased, now you will not believe this, but it has decreased itself to my heartbeat. Not just the same speed, but synchronised.

Now that is what I call bonding. That will happen I believe, if you have a good Y factor going for you. And that synchronised pulsing is sort of supernatural.

Now not being a scientist I could explain what that means to me, but that would be giving the game away. You can work it out.


Right, so there I was filtering lovely creek water with a dash of vinegar and now a bit of me. I can hear the academics screaming from here. So what. My cell is part of me. I put a lot of me into that cell. I believe that it can do what I want it to do. I have bonded with my cell.

Now let’s get real here. The cell in itself is just a conglomeration of pipes and rubber. It is only water and a dash of vinegar that physically goes into it. And then we apply a little bit of electricity. OK, what we have here is hardware. That is all it is, hardware. But there is something else going on. The hardware makes gas, but the aim is not for gas. The aim is to get the cell to a condition where it can attract the Life-force into it, and encourage the Life-force to accumulate in there until it reaches a certain potential. Our next aim is to encourage the Life-force to enter into the ugly bits of metal we call an engine.

By now you know we do that by using an alloy tube that goes onto the side of the engine. It does not go into the carburetor, it does not go into the manifold. It goes onto, onto is the key word.

Our aim is to encourage the Life-force to flow up the tube and through the metal of the engine and into the water jacket. We build a blank, or blind plug into our connection between the cell and the engine. The gas does not go into the engine. Hopefully the gas will fill the top of the cell and the tube all the way to the engine. And that gas has a certain electrical charge that does encourage the Life-force to flow.

The next step is for the Life-force to charge the water in the water jacket of the engine, and that water will then assist in making some changes to the materials the engine is made of. The engine and the coolant water actually change into something else. I do not know what it is, I do not care, I simply wait for it to happen.

All of this talk about Life-force may have started some of you wondering what it is all about. Do an Internet search on Willhelm Reich, or orgone. Read Alex Schiffers book. There is oodles of information available.

But I have another idea. As you may have guessed by now, I am not really a scholar, nor a scientist. But neither am I a complete dill. I can have some ideas of my own. I can rationalise. So can you.

It is time to go for the "what-if’s". Let us accept that Reich was right (and no one has disproved him) and that there is an orgone field traveling around the earth. How did it get there? Do you believe that you can tap into that energy field? I hope you do. Because this is what the Y factor is all about. Alex Schiffer wrote about the Y factor. It does seem that most, if not all cell builders accept that the Y factor holds the real key to success with a cell of the Joe variety.

What is the Y factor about? On a very basic level it is about integrity, truth and honesty. It is not about financial gain. Some of us believe that the Y factor will never be "cracked". Some of us believe it has been put there for a purpose. Well if it was put there, how, who did it or did it just happen?

Many of us know, more suspect, that there is another dimension involved when we start charging up our cells. Some of us believe that we are beginning to move into that dimension as soon as we decide to become builders.

Anyway, it is your cell, not mine, so you are the person to do the thinking, ask the questions, and make the decisions. I wish you well in this.

A thing to possibly take note of. My cells would not charge properly until I realised that building cells with the goal of making money was not on. As soon as I gave up on that idea I became successful.

Lids and outlet pipes, look at Alex’s and Barry’s work. There is no need for me to duplicate it.

And there is something else I need to tell you. Take a deep breath. This might hurt. There is a high probability that you will never get to run your car with a cell and no petrol.

There has been a lot of hype about these Joe cells. They don’t always work. No matter what you have heard, or been told, or read, Joe cells do not always work. In fact they more often will not do what they are built to do. There are experts trying to figure out how to make every cell work every time. I am not a scientist.


My recommendation is to go for the Mark 4. Joe originally built the Mark 3 as a cell that would charge it’s own water and would then be installed in a vehicle. If my understanding of Barry’s book is correct, that Mark 3 cell was meant to be wired to a small power supply. This was intended to maintain a charge in the cell at times when the orgone level is low, which I am told is somewhere around 2 o’clock to 4 o’clock in the morning. It seems that even Joe’s own cell was losing its charge at that time, and 1.5 volts from a torch battery was seen as the answer to the problem.

And yet another "however". However, not all cells lose their charge, or leak. So if your cell does not leak you will not need to wire it up in-vehicle. I personally am dead against wiring them up in cars. If the cell does not leak it’s charge it is a good one, if it does lose it’s charge it is not going to be reliable even if you can encourage it to do what you built it to do. So then you have the option of starting again or trying to turn it into a gas producer. That is probably easier, but is still hard, and is not what Joe cells are about.


In our experimental work on the cell, I have graded the cell types with a crude numerical system, ie. stage 1, stage 2 and so on. Let me refresh you in case you have forgotten or are a new player:

Stage 1:

A normal electrolysis cell doing what it does best, conventional electrolysis with the production of hydrogen and oxygen. This production of gasses follows the well known Faraday rules, namely more current , more gas.

Absolutely useless for what we are working on, and only of any use to people that still think that they can obtain more power from the resultant conversion of water to gas, than what the power requirement is to achieve the separation. I wish you luck, you will need it.

Stage 2:

The ‘seeding’ of the cell with the new energy. At this stage the cell is attempting to initialise the conversion process, but due to faulty materials or construction defects or water type, etc., etc., the cell will not ‘catch’ or enter its free running or breeding mode in the production of the energy. This can be equated to trying to push a child on a swing and pushing the swing out of synchronism (or with insufficient force) with the desired pendulum effect.

Stage 3:

The ‘breeding’ stage of the cell: The ‘seeding’ attempt was successful (the swing is swinging) and the cell is now accumulating and producing the desired energy. The output of the cell is greater than the combined design (or otherwise) losses, and the cell is useable although very temperamental and thus unreliable and not practical for commercial use. At this stage, the cell is a ‘laboratory queen’ and is only suitable for proof of concept type work, as well as the unreliable production of ‘anti-gravity’ and transmutation effects (to mention a couple). This stage 3 cell would suffice for the stationary running of a water-cooled power plant for example.

Stage 4:

The cell (as well as breeding) is now a reliable and commercially viable product. It is not affected by power lines and similar low level electromagnetic disturbances and is also far more immune to "Y" factors and similar external fields.

The most important characteristic is that the cell is not location specific. Of course, this attribute is exactly what you need from a reliable car.

This stage of cell operation is still heavily guarded by the very few people that ‘know’ the secrets of positive and negative potential utilisation and frequency resonance in association with the cell design.

If you stop and think and consider the staggering implication of the mass release of this energy to all and sundry, you may then realise why the game became dirty and free energy does cost money!

Please do not be surprised if these individuals do not knock on your door, and spoon feed you the details.

Stage 5:

This is really not a cell as such. It is the conversion of the engine, the water therein and the electrical system of the car, with the aim of achieving a cell type effect out of the engine itself. Of course this is also the obvious and logical conclusion for the experimenter that wanted to run his car on a cell.

To the best of my knowledge, you must have a water cooled engine to achieve this ‘enveloping’ engine field and thus it is not suitable for air cooled motors.

As you can easily deduce, if people are secretive with a Stage 4 cell, I don’t have to tell you how they guard a Stage 5 unit. However, if you know how to go Stage 5, they will knock on your door for other reasons.

There are many other types of specialised cells that are not relevant to this simple coverage, but I am simply making you aware that Stage 5 is not the end of the ball game by a long shot.


Update No. 5

The Joe Cell and ‘ Zero Point Energy ’

Zero Point Energy:

On the temperature scale, absolute zero is -273.15° C or zero degrees Kelvin.At this temperature, as there is no ‘ heat ’, the capacity for doing work ( energy ) should be zero.Some scientists do however agree that as the energy present at his temperature is not thermal, it is plausible that there is ‘ Sea of Energy ’ or an aether or similar that has short lived ‘ virtual ’ elementary particles capable of doing ‘ work ’.

Refer to Dirac (1930), Gamow (1966) and many others as well as a short mention in my update ‘ Negative Electricity ’ (10-12-2001).

A related book on the engineering principles for Free Energy is " Quest For Zero Point Energy " by Moray B. King ISBN: 0-932813-94-1, published by Adventures Unlimited Press.

Conservation of Energy:

To have ‘Free Energy’, we have to break some well established laws. But, laws are meant to be broken as and when better laws come along to replace the flawed existing ones. Thus the laws of thermodynamics and the conservation of energy are not set in concrete. If we do not assume that the physical universe that we are in is a closed system, we can introduce overdue revisions of present laws. The Joe cell is a conversion device that can ‘ cross ’ over this border or present day laws and extract and utilise the endless and unlimited energy that is all around us and that the majority ignore. Modern science has finally caught up, and now the concepts that the cell works on are not on the lunatic fringe, in actuality it follows well defined scientific rules.

Principle of all ‘Free Energy Devices’:

The devices that do tap into this energy stream all utilise similar principles. I will leave it to the reader to pursue other devices, but the present topic is on the most elegant ( my opinion ) and simplest device of all, the Joe cell. Please try to understand these three principles, as all device use them in some form or other.

1. We must have a system that is not in balance or is unstable.

Thus, if we have a stable system or a system in equilibrium, there is no reason for the system or cell to do work. Like a boulder that has rolled down from the mountain top, once it reaches the valley there it stays, static and in balance.

As Summers stated, " The energy from this storehouse ( ZPE ) is available to man free of charge in vast quantities by the simple method of changing the electromagnetic Balance ".

On the bye, he also stated that Orgone or Prana, is an AC electrical current pulsating at an extremely high frequency. Now that is interesting, keep it in the back of your mind for later use.

So for rule 1, our cell must not be in a stable state, it must be seeking an equilibrium or a more stable point just like a boulder in motion at the top of the mountain.

2. We must have a non-liner performance in the conversion.

This should be fairly evident, for what is the point of getting back a result that is equivalent to the work that we have put into to get that result. We must have an amplifying effect so that a very small input will return a far larger gain. For example, it should require a very small push on our 10 ton boulder to initiate an enormous amount of energy as the boulder seeks equilibrium.

So for rule 2, our cell must get beyond stage 2 ( the seeding stage ) and become a non linear converter or accumulator for the ‘energy’. Stage 1 or plain electrolysis is useless and if you stay at this stage, you will get either more or less gas production, period.

3. We must have our device (the cell) in a potential source of the energy.

This one is an easy one as all things on this planet are constantly surrounded by an endless energy field that only requires the right type of conversion device to utilise same.

So for rule 3, the experimenter does not have to make any provisions as the cell is in this field, as is everything else.

As rule 3. takes care of itself, we are left with rule 1 and 2.

The question is, how does the cell and the operator utilise these rules for the greatest benefit. In other words, how do we tap into the ZPE force?

Rule 1:

Think about it, what can we do to the cell to make it unstable or out of balance?

Well, here are some,

a. We apply a potential difference (our power source) across a non linear resistance (our chosen liquid)

b. This results in ionisation and electron flow that have different propagation rates.

c. This current flow results in the formation of a magnetic field and if done correctly, (due to the Lorenz law), this field will rotate.

d. The electron density is vastly different on the outer positive and the inner negative due to cylinder surface area.

e. The creation of numerous and very small bubbles. I see the key element here more the bursting (abrupt shock) of the bubbles rather than the creation of same. This I see very closely parallelling the sonoluminescence experiments and the resultant manifestation of blue light that results from these experiments.

f. The creation of compartments or layers of dissimilar physical characteristics. In our case stainless steel and water.

One or more of the above can break the at rest (stable and balanced) condition of the Zero Point Energy (ZPE) force in the vicinity of the cell. The disturbance of the stable state of the ZPE will create a reaction and this reaction coming back via our non linear cell will provide more energy than what was required to instigate the action.

Please note that this reaction can be a ‘push’ or a ‘shove’and the cell can both act as a source or a sink for different applications. Very important.

It is interesting to note that similar over unity devices by Meyer and Puharich also use a method to shock (with voltage pulses) the ZPE, with the result of non linear exchange with matter. In both cases water (thus ion flow in part) was the medium

As mentioned under (e) above, I very much favour the effect that results from the collapsing air bubbles.

Claudia Eberlien (Cambridge University, 1996) talking on sonoluminescence stated that a bubble of the minimum radius can cause an increase in value of a thousandfold and we are only talking about one bubble. I would suggest that this excess energy is from the ZPE field.

Rule 2:

As mentioned above, Eberlien, Mizuno and many other have shown anomalies with sonoluminescence experiments. These simply sated, were an excesses of heat far beyond any possible test equipment or laboratory measurement problems or anomalies.

Eberlien believes that the light (the blue light of Orgone in my view) is being emitted by the vacuum surrounding the bubble.

"Modern quantum theory holds that unseeable virtual photons (as mentioned above) abound in the vacuum. The behaviour of these zero point fluctuations is influenced by the properties of the surrounding medium".

Cheretski (1983) is another scientist happy with the above concepts, namely, "...vacuum energy can explain this mysterious effect. ...Emerging from below the ZPE level from ‘nothing’ and returning to ‘nothing’, virtual particles appear to defy the laws of conservation of energy".

As I have mentioned, if we remove the walls from this so-called ‘closed’ system of present day physics, we can readily introduce new laws to replace invalid old ones.

Another non-linearity is the speed differential between the ion current and the electron current in relation to the cell. There is a large time difference in the propagation velocity of the two and this time difference can be manipulated with suitable pulsing, or partial of complete potential reversals.

This effect can be utilised to cause the ZPE to be accumulated or added in our cells.

I have stated many times the example of the child on the swing and the importance of the parent providing the ‘push’ or impetus at the exact right time. Only with this synchronicity will the cell move from the seeding to the breeding or stage 3 cycle. And just as importantly, to go to stage 4, the push has to at least equal all possible external ‘friction’s’ or dampening agents on the cell.

Simplistically, I called the friction the leaking of the cell and our stage 4 cell can overcome these, but the stage 3 cannot overcome all possible interferences.

For additional information on the ion/electron effect, you may want to read Tom Beardon’s paper dated "Bearden on Bedini’s negative resistance effect --- 04-09-2000" and posted on Keelynet.

Power Supply


As you probably know, there are many speculations, myths, rumours, guesses and so on as to what constitutes the ‘right’ power supply. My manual is interpreted incorrectly by some, so I want to again reinforce what I did say, and not what some individuals think that I meant by those statements.

Let me again remind you that when Joe (and others) started their experiments with the intention of running cars on water, there were no fancy power supplies and the Joe Cell ‘effect’ was unknown.

It was simply a matter of making as much gas as possible and to do this, lots of current and electrolyte were the answer. I am going back 10 years and you simply have to watch a video of these early attempts to confirm what I am saying.

That is still the way to go if you want to generate gas. Commercial units are based on a lot of current, a lot of electrolyte, a lot of heat and a lot of pressure. It is not where we want to go!

The early power supplies were car batteries and/or battery chargers. The function of these power supplies was to electrolyse water and thus generate hydrogen and oxygen. No attempts were made to separate the two gasses and thus we ended up with a variety of gas combinations.

Depending on the quantity and type of electrolyte and also the current passed through the cells, we had the production of water vapour, steam, hydrogen, oxygen, Brown’s gas and even atomic hydrogen plus trace gasses that resulted from the various chemistry used as an electrolyte.

It was much later that experimenters realised that it was not the known gasses that was required, but a mysterious gas or force that ran the car without the requirement of brute electrolysis of large quantities of water or even the gasses as we know them.

In fact, it was discovered that a very small current would suffice and that the water was not even consumed, as we were not interested in electrolysis for the sake of creating Brown’s gas and thus running the car on hydrogen.

With the discovery of the ‘force’, methods were employed to increase the cells ability to run in this mode, i.e., to be a generator, transformer or accumulator of this energy.

Unfortunately as this force is not very well understood, cannot be readily seen or measured, the end result was total confusion.

It is only at this stage that the dimensions, power supply, materials and water became important. As you all know plain old every day electrolysis follows very well known rules and you only have to go to your nearest electro-plating concern to see the methods in use.

Two piece of metal in a plastic bucket, some electrolyte, connect a car battery to the metal plates, and hey presto, electrolysis!

The Joe cell is not an electro-plating device, in actuality we go to great effort to prevent the migration of metallic ions. As we are not interested in electro-plating, or the creation of hydrogen and oxygen, we go to great effort to optimise the cell for its chosen task.

People that think that you can simply connect the above said bucket to a car and then get free energy forever and ever, should really have their heads examined. Think about it for heavens sake! It is that easy, how come no one is doing it? Sheesh!

It is an art form, a skill, a special technique that belies the difficulties in the apparent simplicity.

For example, take a grain of wheat put it in light on a piece of wet cotton wool and Bingo!, we have a plant. Easy hey? Yeah sure! Do you realise the complexity of this simply result? The cell is the same.


There is a vast variety of possible power supplies, and some have been mentioned by readers and experimenters. Unfortunately, included in the suggestions is some very misleading guidance, deliberate or otherwise.

As I am not perfect and as I also do not know all the answers, all I can do is to offer you advice and methods that I have found that work for me. That is all that I would hope for from others.

This advice comes from years of hands on work, and is not merely theories that may flash through my brain whilst watching my favourite sporting event.

1. We must have some form of direct current, be it pulsations or an offset on the AC. It is IMPOSSIBLE to have electrolysis with a pure sine wave that comes from your power point! It make no difference if you are in the Northern of Southern hemisphere or how you hold your mouth to whatever. It is no go!

As a sine wave, be it 50 hZ or 60 hZ is equal and opposite for the same time in one 360 degree period, the current will try to flow one way for half to the time and the other way for the remainder. Equal and opposite and thus no electrolysis. I simply cannot understand why people insist that this will work, they simply could not have tried it.

Trust me guys, the people that recommend pure AC (no matter what the frequency) are wrong. If you only use a mains transformer, the output voltage, current or operating frequency abilities are irrelevant, you have pure AC and it will not cause electrolysis!

2. HOWEVER, if we have a resultant offset current, either positive or negative, this will result in periods of direct current that remains passing through the cell in one direction, and we thus have electrolysis. We must have some sort of unbalance.

This is simply achieved by rectifying the AC with a diode combination and not utilising the filtering capacitor to smooth out the ripple. The end result is a direct current with a very large ripple component, and if you look in any cheap battery charger, this is all the it contains, a transformer, diode and some protection circuitry and maybe an Ammeter.

3. The simple battery charger above, worked very well for many experimenters including Joe for many, many years. There must be hundreds of stage 3 cells that never saw anything better as a power source. Sadly when the cell will not go to stage 3, people tend to clutch at straws, to listen to the flavour of the month. This months flavour is the ‘ special ’ power supply.

4. Like all things, over the years the cell was refined and the power supply as well. As you know, we now have stage 4 and stage 5 working and who knows what next.

These later systems employ specialised power supplies. Before I tell you what I know on this, let me very briefly define the two basic cell utilisations.

A. The cell is designed for car work and as such it will be running from 12 Volts. I will remind you here that the reason I chose 12 Volts at 1 Amp as a standard are two fold.

One was, that the Ammeter on the dash in Joe’s car whilst running on the cell indicated 1.25 Amps.

The second was my hope that if everybody used the same standard (12 Volts, 1 Amp), we could swap experimental data and thus achieve our aims sooner. This second aim was a complete flop as in general, people simply do not want to share.

As the cell has to run on 12 volts, I found that some water simply had insufficient conductivity, (too much internal resistance) and would not pass sufficient current for the desired effect. Thus I (among many others) started experimenting with electrolytes. This is not a desired feature but a case of necessity. Obviously, if you can get enough electrolysis with 12 Volts, you do not have to add anything to the water.

But, dear reader, I would just about guarantee you that in the above case, the water was so full of natural or man made electrolytes that the addition was already done for you.

And that goes for dear Joe and him not using electrolyte with 12 Volts.

B. The cell is designed for other non 12 Volt related applications. In this case you definitely do not want to use electrolyte, as you can tailor your power supply to deliver the exact current required.

Joe is using this method to start the cells of visitors and also to go to stage 4. His supply has the ability of supplying far more than 12 volts and thus no electrolyte is required. In this case it can be said that Joe does not use electrolyte and this is correct, as now the statement is not taken out of context.

The supply:

In Joes words and loosely translated, "...I have made a power supply that seems to adjust itself to the frequency that is required by any cell..".

The above is all well and good, but I am sure that like myself you would love to know how to do the above, whatever it means.

As you have read down his far, you will have realised that I am stating that the shock or impulse that allows our cells to work must be of sufficient magnitude and must have the right periodicity for us to initially ‘seed’ the cell and then to keep repeating this push or shock at the right frequency to allow the ‘breeding’ process to continue. Additionally, the shock or pulse has to be of sufficient magnitude to overcome the cells natural tendencies to ‘ leak ’.

Now the above is a big ask, and various experimenters on many systems have been trying to do this for years. Joe for one, by utilising a simple and cheap second hand ex-Telecom power supply can do this and this can be duplicated by others. After knowing the tricks that is.

Joe doe not use any additional components (to the best of my knowledge) he simply rewires the circuitry around the primary and secondary of the transformer. This power supply modification allows the cell to work in stage 4 mode.

Let me state at this point that any modification of power supplies or mains connected appliances is DANGEROUS because it can be LETHAL!!!!!!

There is not many more dangerous combinations than water and electricity. I am not advising anybody to modify anything or to tamper or change any mains connected appliance! Far from it.

I am simply repeating what others have done with the aim of passing on experimental knowledge to people versed in the required arts. Moving on.

Joe is convinced that we are using electricity incorrectly and that we are only using the ‘positive’. In his view the modification to the power supply are made to utilise the unused ‘ negative ’.

In closing, a normal power supply will get you up to stage 3, and if you cannot get this far there is no point in endangering yourself and other by making possibly lethal modifications.

Update 6

The Joe Cell and the ‘ Y ’ factor.


The ‘Y’ factor is the ability of the operator (or any radiating body in the near vicinity), to interact with the device and cause either an enhancement or diminishment in its desired performance.

I have named it the ‘Y’ factor for ‘you’ after Reich suggested that his Orgone motor required a ‘Y’ factor for its correct operation. As Reich’s documents are still locked away and thus unseen, I cannot guarantee that definition from Reich’s point of view. It remains to be seen if we have the same definition for ‘Y’.


What the experimenter really should know is, what proof is there in science that an organic structure can interact with a non organic structure. Or put in simpler terms, can the presence of a person affect the outcome of an experiment and vice versa?

For the well read amongst you, there is a resounding yes to the above question as it has been proven thousands of times in metaphysical type experiments such as spoon bending, mediumship, alternative healing and the feats of certain religious groups.

However for the sceptical, once bitten twice shy individual, the above are merely non scientific sleight of hand, fraud, trickery, coincidences, chance events or freak occurrences and can be easily debunked by such great ‘Gurus’ as the ‘great ’ Randi (the debunkers' God).

It would be nice to have solid proof from the scientific fraternity, to at least show your doubting friends and/or to give even you dear reader a bit more faith in the phenomenon.

Quantum Physics:

Basically the theory that energy does not have continuous range of values, but instead it has a discontinuity and this energy is composed of finite units called quanta.

By this science agrees in the main to the theory, that our world is not a continuous construction nor is it solid. On the contrary our world actually ‘exists’ as short and rapid bursts of light or quanta.

From the above it can be easily deducted that as the world is not solid or as it does not have a continuous existence, then we can have ‘magical’ events where objects can appear or disappear and where time can be gained or lost.

In actuality, an outcome called the ‘Bose-Einstein condensate’ allows for two atoms to occupy the same point. These events have been observed and even seen with the naked eye as well as being photographed. (Satinover 1997)

As the above in practice would allow for the concept of parallel universes, we can see the far reaching implication of our Joe cell and the source of the cell’s power.

In passing: Hugh Everett from Princetown University covered the above topic in 1957.

I introduced Quantum physics to show you that the ‘Y’ factor can be acting on several dimensions and in years to come will have a very logical explanation for the effect. Similarly, it shows that what we call reality is not as ‘ firm’ or solid as we believed it was.

This was known thousands of years ago with the ‘Maya’ concept, stating that we live in an illusion that we call reality, and our scientists have merely rediscovered a very old and well trodden path.


As quantum physics start to shatter the illusion of what we call reality, it comes down to the question of what in actuality is ‘matter’?. For if there is no continuity or ‘solidity’, including the Joe Cell or us, where does it leave the established laws?

Let me quote you the great Max Planck, a Nobel prize winner:

"There is no matter as such! All matter originates and exists only by virtue of a force which brings the particles of an atom to vibration and holds this most minute solar system together....We must assume behind this force the existence of a conscious and intelligent mind. This mind is the Matrix of all matter".

There dear reader you have the crux of the situation. If there is no matter as such, and if matter is held together by the conscious mind, then we as part of the same construct ( conscious mind ) interact with all and everything.

As I would rather stick to science (imperfect as it may be) then wade into the depths of religion (a no-win situation in any debate), I will leave it at that for you to ponder on if you so wish.

Let me show you only a few examples of the type of interaction on the scientific level that may suffice. It follows that the action can be from a device to a human as well as from a human to a device.


A. V. Chernetski, Moscow 1983, from the book ‘Systems of Plasma with Separation of Charges’, page 91: Figure 10 shows the reaction of the human body to the operation of devices utilising the Zero Point Energy ( ZPE ). In this example there is scientific proof of a device affecting the operator in very specific ways.

Viktor S. Grebennikov, Senior researcher, Russian Academy of Science. From the book ‘ My World ’. Like the first example, Viktor talks about many side effect whilst on his ‘ anti-gravity ’ platform and whilst near certain shape forms.

Included in the above are some simple experiments that you can do at very low cost, and thus prove this factor for yourself.

Glen Rein & Rollin McCraty, Third annual conference of the International Society for the Study of Subtle Energies, 1993: It has been shown that emotion can actually change the physical molecule of DNA. " individuals trained in generating focused feeling of deep love...were able to intentionally cause a change in the shape of the DNA ".

The above shows that a controlled though can alter something. By logic it would follow, that the state of a person is also some form of ‘ at rest ’ energy field and this field will also interact with other fields.

Richard Broughton, Director of Research at the Institute for Parapsychology in North Carolina: In his analysis of contemporary psychokinesis research, he proves conclusively and beyond any doubt that people can interact with inert objects and get these objects to perform as directed by the scientists.

Again, it is only a small step to make in me saying that the observer that you invited to watch your Joe cell at work, will have a unique ‘ output ’ that he may not be aware of.

I am simply saying that a mindset can disturb your experiment by reacting with the cell in a positive or negative way.

Experiments in Distance Influence. L. L. Vasoliev, Professor of Physiology as the University of Lenningrad. A good read with many examples of recorded scientific experiments of deliberate manipulations of various devices. This book also supplies some characteristic of the ‘ enemations’.

Beyond Telepathy. Andrija Puharich, Neurologist. Another very comprehensive ‘scientific’ proof of the ability of humans to interact with so called passive devices.

In a nutshell:

I can quote you books upon books of documented mind over matter scientifically observed and carried out experiments, but it is not my job to convince you of anything. I simply bring it to your attention, to use or abuse, believe it or not.

Your conclusive proof is as close as your nearest library and the effort that you are prepared to make to attain knowledge.

Some points that may be worth considering:

1. Mankind simply does not ‘know’ anything. We only have theories and these theories are constantly being upgraded as new experiments refine our knowledge. As such there is no theory or law that is set in concrete. We simply do not understand all the possible variables to be able to formulate definite and thus unchangeable laws.

2. As we only have theories, for someone to say that it is impossible for the external environment to affect a Joe cell is pure nonsense. Of course if they were prepared to prove it, hey!, we have a new ball game.

3. As we are part of the environment and are ‘broadcasting’ a whole range of frequencies, it is not too outlandish to suggest that these frequencies may interact with the frequencies of the materials and their operation, that makes up the Joe cell device.

4. If point (3.) above is plausible, it follows by logic, that this interaction may be additive or subtractive in such a way as to make the cell function ‘better’ or ‘worse’.

5. The end result is, that the human as well as the natural and man made complex frequency bands ( and harmonics resultant ) is a very important consideration in the research on subtle energy devices.


Science has proven that there is no such thing as a firm/solid reality. Science has also proven that there is a two way interaction between all things (on this planet at least). That is a fact! That is also the ‘Y’ factor.

I would strongly suggest to the serious experiment to be aware of the ‘Y’ factor and not treat it as some sort of fairy tale.

Simply because the majority of ‘sheeple’ on this planet are only aware of what is purported to be ‘fact’ via media releases and similar, it is very easy to throw away the baby with the bath water.

Update 7

Stainless Steel and the Joe Cell.


I am including more information on the stainless cylinders and their preparation and treatment.

My aim is twofold, firstly to clear up some of the misconceptions that seem to have entered the arena.

Secondly to add new material that may further help the experimenter.

Stainless Steel:

There is nothing magic about stainless steel, or the reason that we use it in the cell.

We use it because it is reasonably inert to the electrolysing process and far cheaper than titanium, gold or platinum, the last mentioned being the perfect choice but simply too costly even for Universities (in the quantity required).

So as we are making a cost compromise, we must be prepared for problems that result from not using the optimum material. And the stainless does have many problems.


There are many types of stainless steel and they fall under three broad categories:

1. Austenitic. These contain chromium and nickel as the main percentage of the alloy. Type 302, 304 and 316 are typical examples.

2. Ferritic. These contain mainly chromium and ferrite. Type 430 is a typical example.

3. Martensitic. These are low carbon steels containing mainly iron and chromium. Type 410 is a typical example.

As we are only interested in ‘non magnetic’stainless steel, we are interested in the austenitic or type 3xx variety and more specifically type 304, 316 or 316L.

Of the three mentioned types, 316L has superior corrosion resistance to chemicals and is the most common type used by Joe cell experimenters.

As said previously, I use it as well, but I am quite partial to the cheaper 304 (food grade)


I could write volumes here, but basically you get what you pay for.

If the steel is not wrapped in a plastic sleeve, does not have regular type identification numbers on it, shows a longitudinal discoloured weld seam, is thicker at the weld seam and is out of round, do I really have to tell you that you have got an inferior (and thus cheaper) length and that you should not even bother taking it out of the rack?

Now the above are ‘first impression’ things that you can do with your hands still in your pocket.

If your steel does not have any of the above traits, it is time for the trusty rare earth magnet. I have described the test procedure before, so I will not elaborate.

For the lucky (read, with money), seamless steel that is extruded is the way to go and you increase your chances of success by quite a large margin.

If you were wondering, no, I cannot afford it and I use what I can get.

Okay you say, my steel looks great, tests great, do I have a piece for the construction of the perfect cell?

Sadly no, for there are yet many hurdles to jump. Read on.

I have mentioned over and over that the Joe cell is the most deceptive device of all, it looks so simple to make, it has so few parts and yet less than a dozen ( known experimenters ) can make it fly.

I would love a dollar for all the hours of frustration that experimenters around the world have poured into the cell, I would have to be a multi-millionaire and quite a few thousand of that would have to be my contribution. If only the people who ‘knew’would share, now what a wonderful world that would be.

The ‘ right ’ Stainless Steel:

Additional to the above type and quality of the stainless, we enter into the world of pseudo science or at least science that is not taught in Universities and such like.

Let me give you a few examples:

1. A person that could not get his cell going took it to Joe. Joe simply moved the position of the positive connection to the cell on outer case and it commenced working.

2. Another person took a non working cell to Joe. Joe told this individual that the two inner cylinders were "upside down".

3. Another non working cell was taken to Joe. Joe drilled the minutest hole in a critical area and the cell sprung to life.

4. A person was walking down Joe’s drive-way with his $6,000 dollar purchase of the ‘right’ steel. Before he got to Joe, Joe told him it was ‘crap’ and to take it back.

5. To get the ‘right’ steel keg, Joe chose out of 200 beer kegs and even now only has one keg that will start up in exactly the same mode each time.

6. When your cell does not work, Joe recommends the ‘flashing’ of the cylinders to set up the right


The above examples are some that come quickly to mind, there are many others.

So dear reader, you have read the above, what do you make of it?

I will tell you what I make of it and it is all bad news for a ‘quick and easy’ project.

a. There are obviously complex atomic and sub-atomic characteristics that are involved.

Additionally there are magnetic, electric and aetheric interactions at a very subtle level.

b. There is some form of tuning involved that is not measurable with conventional scientific methods.

c. Some people can ‘see’ and thus make or correct components by ‘intuition’ or ‘gut feeling’.

Summing up a. b. and c., I read that scientific methods alone will not make a cell work nor be able to explain the operation. But then you knew that.

Back to the stainless, what can you do to at least enhance your cell’s ability to ‘do’ something?


1. It goes without saying that you should get what has worked for others. Definitely 304, 316 and 316L has and is working for experimenters.

2. Make sure that your chosen cell passes the tests as mentioned previously and above.

3. If you cut the steel, use a low temperature process and a cutting method that does not inbed foreign material in the cut. Read my previous notes on the subject.

4. Make sure that the length of your inner tubes are close to the same length with parallel cuts top and bottom. Very easy to test at the machine shop before you pay your good money, simply place on a flat surface and hold a metal ruler on edge across the top. This little test tells all.

If your cylinder set has just come of the lathe, there are no excuses for sloppy work. If you have made a set at home, please realise that the length has to be reasonably the same, in actuality only the top surface of the cylinder pack had to be dead level, the odd length can ‘hang’ out the bottom.

A little trick, if the one inch tube is higher than the rest, it can ‘see’ over the top of the others and your cell is dead! Far better to lower the central tube a smidgin and thus it will be ‘blind’.

The above is easily observed by filling the cell to meniscus level and observing the bubble pattern.

5. If you have to polish the tubes, be very careful! The polishing lines must not run at an angle to the circumference of the tube. I have mentioned this before as it is hard to do inside the two inch.

What I have not explained is exactly how to ‘clean’ the stainless tubes before using.

This now follows:


This is a generic term used to describe the process of removing free iron from the surface of the stainless. If not done, the surface may exhibit the ‘rust spots’ that most builders complain about.

The process should remove the surface contamination without significantly affecting the stainless steel itself.

It is the addition of the chromium that makes the steel rust resistant by combining with the oxygen to form a very thin and invisible layer of chromium oxide.

This is called the passive film.

So, as you busily polish your works of art, you are also removing this thin chromium film and exposing the iron to the air and thus you have rust, the brown spots that we are all familiar with.

No, don’t slash your wrists, the cure is very simple.

Methods of Passivation:

The commercial method involves the submerging of the steel in a solution of nitric acid ( 20-25% by volume ) and sodium bicarbonate ( 2-3% by weight ) and 35% of water.

The steel is submerged for 20 to 30 minutes and the nitric acid dissolves the iron and restores the original corrosion resistant surface.

Dear reader, nitric acid is not very friendly, expensive and not easy to dispose of. Leave this method to the professionals.

For home use I would suggest citric acid that is easy to get and is safe and easy to use. A 4-10% by weight solution in water works just fine to passivate, clean and brighten just about any stainless steel.

The time is about the same as for nitric acid and as you should not be in a hurry, 30 minutes is fine.

Rinse in NON tap water ( your favourite mix ) and they are ready for assembly.


As you are by now the proud owner of a power supply, various containers and other equipment as used by those ‘ familiar with the art <g> ’, you may be interested to try and do your own electropolishing.

By using oxalic acid (your wife may have some for dying cloth) or by using phosphoric acid (if you have made Go-Juice) as an electrolyte, and a bar of copper as your cathode (negative) you are ready to go.

Your stainless steel has a positive lead clipped to it and the copper bar or rod is your negative. Put them in a plastic bucket or similar and adjust the concentration of the electrolyte until you get decent action with your power supply of battery.

Bingo! All the cruddy heat tint and similar are gone forever.


Even after purchasing you super expensive bit of seamless stainless, lovingly prepared by the vestigial virgins in the Black Forrest, it still may not work.

This is due to the molecular alignments within the metal and the interaction with the subtle fields in the near vicinity of the cell.

I would suggest that you do all the previously mentioned operations and then ‘flash’ each tube before assembling the cell. If a certain tube does not produce bubbles from both surfaces or does not seem to take part in the action, try turning it end for and/or rotating a ¼ of a turn at a time.

When you have your tubes perfectly aligned mark this position with some form of indelible mark. A tiny pin punch mark on the bottom cut edge is fine.

Update No. 8.


The purpose of this update is to compile all the known factual and proven data on the cell in relation to car operation only.

This data is not simply based on "Joe said, Alex said, etc.". It is based on conclusive empirical tests that have been replicated by at least two or more cell experimenters.

There is an immense amount of speculation, disinformation, wishful thinking and wild theories that are circulating the Internet.

Just like UFO sightings the above achieves derision for any factual sighting or successful cell experimenters from the so called scientific peers. Thus the experimenters are divided, shamed and mocked into clandestine research and minimal reports.

And so the aims of the controlling minority are achieved yet again.

I have done my best to present the facts from my daily cell research and contacts with successful researchers. This is given to you freely in the spirit of sharing and brotherhood.

Needless to say you have to treat this update with equal suspicion as any other set of radical claims. That I would expect from any logical, scientific and open mind. I am always receptive to positive criticism.


I see that the majority of individuals have a desire to ‘run’ a car on a cell. Although there is a multiplicity of far more noble uses for this accumulator or converter, I will provide the information slanted towards that desire.

As we should all know by now, the success of the above desire can be broadly broken up into 3 main stages.

1. The cell.

2. The transfer from the cell to car.

3. The car modifications and conversion process.

Thus the known facts on the above will be presented under these three headings and in no particular order of importance.

The Cell:

* The power source for the cell can be a battery, batteries, power supply or similar. There is no need for the latest ‘special’ power supply to achieve stage three. I cannot stress this enough, as recently there has been deliberate misinformation stating that only a ‘special’ power supply will do.

If you look at this matter historically, Joe stared his research in 1991 and in those early days he only used a 12 Volt car battery, and later on a Telecom 75 volt 50 Amp battery charger. These are the facts.

Personally with my modest successes, I never had the luxury of this ‘special’ power supply.

Of course I would like the schematic as how to make one, but the anal retentives will be what they are, retentive.

You can be assured that the day I get it, the next day you will have it, and that is the reason that nobody is talking to me.

There is no need for special filters, huge smoothing capacitor, complex wave shapes, special ‘secret’ frequencies, special Zener diode networks, impossible AC ‘charging’, ‘turning’ around the negative, or any similar gobble gook.

Yes, for an advanced researcher Joe’s new power supply will start just about any cell and on just about any water, but it is not vital to have one to prove the basic concepts of running a car on a cell.

* A properly working cell will keep all the cylinder surfaces clean. On the application of power both surfaces (except the outer positive and the inner negative) will have a gas production of very fine bubbles. This is aided by having all surfaces highly polished.

Yes, inside the cylinders as well and not just the easy to do outsides.

* No surface tension is a very good indication that your cell is not working properly or at all.

* The personal ‘polarity’ of an individual Will definitely interact with the cell in the crucial seeding stages. This may help or deter or completely stop the seeding process.

* An easy way to test if the cell is breeding is to light a bubble and observe the effect. That is the only use of the bubbles to us, for the car does not run on the bubbles. In actuality, charged water (without power applied) does not have visible gas production and it runs the car just fine.

NOTE! Be extremely cautious lighting any crystal clear long staying bubbles (a day or so old). These little fellows contain an incredible amount of ‘energy’ that can cause severe damage over a large area on being ignited. Don’t say that I did not warn you!

* There is no need for electrolyte in most instances. The need for electrolyte signifies a cell problem or very low voltage. By increasing the voltage applied to the cell you can make any cell start seeding (all other parameters being okay that is).

In actuality the breeding cell will reject all impurities (including the electrolyte) from the water and this will be the commonly observed sediments that are seen in the cell in various locations. Once these impurities are removed, the water will remain crystal clear.

Note. Some water will continue to release chemicals. I decided with one cell to see exactly how much and how long. After 3 months the cell was completely filled with sediment (to the very top), there seems to be no end to it.

Solution? Change the water type and try again. You may have to try dozens of water types before you find the ‘right’ one for you and your cell.

The big advantage of using the vat is that the impurities stay in the keg and you remove the clean charged water and use it to fill the car cell

So if you have used electrolyte and have not ‘cooked’ the cell, as the cell starts to seed and then breed it will self clean and reject these ‘impurities’ and still end up a working cell.

All that I am pointing out is that with a higher voltage, electrolyte is not required.

Please note: Incompatible metal, excess charging time and excess currents will deposit the actual metals of the cylinders themselves. Simply stated, you have ‘cooked’ the cell, pull it apart, start again.

* I must have said this hundreds of times, we are not interested in electrolysis or the generation of hydrogen and/or oxygen, thus we are not interested in large currents, and extended periods of ‘ charging ’ time.

If there is no sign of the ‘right’ activity within one minute (at the longest), stop. Change something and try again.

You may get the cell breeding first time or after months, or years. If it does not work, change something, there is no point in giving it more power or charging time. Sooner to later, you will strike the right ‘ frequency ’ ( as Joe calls it ), it is a matter of observation and persistence and the right mindset.

If all fails, check you body polarity, you should be ‘ positive ’. If not, you can temporarily flip your body potential and ( if this was the problem ), the cell will now perform for you.

I have written down the procedure in my manual (there is a free copy on the web).

You may laugh, however this is an often proven ‘cure’.

Read, experiment, share. The aim of these notes are to help you on the path to success.

* The water level must be above the top of the cylinders for the cell to work properly. A working level of the water above the cylinders of 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch is fine for a start.

* The insulators have to be seen as performing a variety of functions;

A. An insulator of high resistance to conform to Ohm’s law.

B. An insulator to prevent the ‘short circuit’ of the special field that do not conform to Ohm’s law.

C. As a rigid support member to support the cylinder stack.

D. As a precise spacer to retain the cylinders in accurate concentric orientation.

* The only proven cell materials that work are 316 or 304 (food grade) stainless steel.

Yes, I know that people have brass, copper, aluminium and even precious metal coated cells out there. In 8 years, I have not heard of one person that has a car running on an alternate metal cell, and by that I mean a car running on a cell alone and not a shandy of cell and petrol.

If they have, they have not bothered to share it with the rest of us. and in that case there are more than useless to us, themselves and society as a whole.

It is very important that the stainless is seamless or at least not to have a residual magnetic field discontinuity on the weld, or anywhere else for that matter.

During the early and very delicate seeding stages, the cell relies on creating its own spiral magnetic field. Any residual magnetism will fight the establishment of this field by the cell. That is the reason that the initial material must be non magnetic to a reasonable degree.

A very simple indicator that you have a ‘ magnetized ’ seam is that the cell will develop a fine black vertical line at the problem area. Additionally, if there is a bad field discontinuity, it will also create a fine vertical black line on the opposite side to the trouble area. If you have a faulty cell, dismantle it, let the cylinders dry naturally (do not wipe the water off) and have a careful look.

If you have these vertical black lines, that cylinder is no good, get it heat treated or throw it away.

Once the cell establishes seeding and then breeding, it can cope with external magnetic fields to some extent, as it now has set up it’s own permanent field patterns.

Like all devices of this type, the starting of them is the hardest and most critical part of the whole procedure.

* The charge remains in the water and the transfer of this water to another non-working cell, (or the car cell) will start up this new cell. This is on the proviso that the new cell is a suitable candidate.

The Transfer from the Cell to the Car:

* For the zillionth time, WE DO NOT run the motor on hydrogen or oxygen, or their injection into the intake side of the motor. I am always amazed as to how many ‘experts’ analyze the cell operation as if it was some sort of hydrogen gas generator. It is not!

WE DO NOT have any direct opening from the cell to the vacuum side of any part of the motor. We use a blanking plug on to the side of the motor or on the intake manifold, carburetor or similar.

Sometime (rarely) a very small hole is drilled in the blanking plug if it is connected to a component that may have vacuum on the other side.


* A breeding cell does not require power to be applied to it after a successful car installation.

Periodically, power does have to be applied to a leaking cell and/or during the conversion of the car and its contents (and occupants).

In fact, once the car is totally ‘converted’, the cell can be removed completely.

* If the cell is not ‘stable’, and if power is applied to it in the car, the cell may start in a different ‘mode’ each time the ignition (power to the cell) is turned on. Needless to say, the reliability factor would drive a person insane.

Power to the cell does provide more power in some situations, but you have to be aware of the above shortcomings. If (and that is a big if), you had a stable cell, this cell would start up in the same mode each time and the above problem would not exist.

It is wiser to fill the car cell with charged water on a as need basis and not to connect the cell to power in the car. If however the geometry, or location and such like of the cell is unsuitable, the charged water will be ‘discharged’ in a relatively short period to time. You will have to play the game by ear, yes, it is called experimentation.

Sooner or later, you will find that the water remains charged, the car remains charged and that the car is reliable in any location over long periods of time. As this goal has different solution for different combinations of car and occupant/s, there are no clear cut rules that apply to all situations.

* It must be realized that when the car is running on the cell, the butterfly of the carburetor become an air quantity control and so it is the ‘mixture’ control for the 'air/force’ mixture.

Normally (on petrol) the mixture is a function of jetting and the butterfly is ‘how much’ of the optimized mix you allow the motor to intake.

The above is one of the reasons of not having the cell operating on idle, as the air flow may be insufficient to provide the right mixture.

This is very important! It explains why the car may ‘take off ’ as you remove your foot from the accelerator and then stumble when you put your foot down.

You will have to rethink the role of the accelerator to overcome any problems in this area.

The above is also the reason that the Rover (using a Zenith, a form of S.U. carburetor) works so well as we have a constant displacement system. The needle and so the fuel quantity is controlled by the lifting of a tapered needle under vacuum control.

Conversely, in a normal carburetor the mixture comes from a variety of jets that provide differing quantities of fuel under vacuum control. Sounds the same but it is not.

The car modifications and conversion process.

* Joe’s first car and easy conversion was a Rover 3500 SDI. This motor is a ‘natural’ for cell conversions.

If you have a stationary installation (a test stand motor), re-read the above note on the function of the butterfly.

* The converted car will display some very bizarre effects;

A. Radiator can totally ice up.

B. Cold white mist comes out of exhaust and sometimes the exhaust will have ice on it.

C. Virtually silent running of motor and exhaust.

D. Unreasonably and normally impossible engine RPM, either abnormally high (over 10,000 RPM) or low (1 RPM). Believe it or not.

E. Various problems with the oil that is in the engine, i.e., it may try to escape in any way possible.

F. Weight loss of vehicle (partial or complete).

G. Various electrical failures of car instrumentation.

H. The motor may only idle and not rev out, or it will only run under load and not idle.

I. And of course, no fuel required to run the motor.

* Large timing changes are required to optimize the motor on the cell. For example the Rover required 80 degrees advance (distributor degrees). On non aluminium motors, you will do these advance changes on a progressive basis as you reduce the fuel quantity.

* On non aluminium motors the conversion to cell has to be done following a set procedure. Basically a charged cell has to be in the car first to partially ‘charge’ the motor, and then slowly the fuel intake to the motor is reduced by either jet blockage or reduction or similar and then eventually the fuel is completely disconnected. At each step the appropriate advance adjustment are carried out.

This process may take days or even weeks.

So, with non aluminium type motors you cannot simply turn off the fuel source and then expect the cell to ‘kick in’ and run the car.

When I was working on cars, I installed a cell first and drove around for several weeks to acclimatize the car. Only after that did I try any conversions. During this acclimatization period the cell will tell you when it is ready.

It is not a simple conversion as on the Rover, where the fuel can be disconnected and the cell takes over and the motor is then optimized by ignition advance adjustments.

* The location of the cell is reasonably critical. Any locations adjacent to strong magnetic (and thus interfering field) must be avoided. This would include starter motor cabling, ignition wiring, ignition coil, distributor, spark plug wiring, electric fuel pump and wiring, windscreen wiper motor and wiring, electric fan and wiring, air conditioner clutch and wiring, alternator and wiring and similar devices that require or produce electromagnetic field.

* As mentioned in the cell section, a person can have an ‘negative’ polarity, and an onlooker or passenger is able to stop the cell from functioning. Fact.


The above is some of the known cell/car data that I have and that I have either personally witnessed or have received from more than one trusted and reliable source.

If you can add facts to this list that will assist your fellow experimenters, what is holding you back?

If you want to give your favourite arm chair theoretical discourse, please don’t bother, I personally am not interested, there is enough confusion already.

If you disagree with any of the above and can prove otherwise, please do so, for that is the reason for having the Joe cell discussion group.

I (and my sources) are far from infallible.

In the spirit of sharing and research I wish you all success. (April 13, 2006) ---

Joe Cell Truck Builder Threatened, Destroys Plans

After announcing that he had successfully built a truck that runs on Joe Cell technology, drawing energy from water and Orgone, Bill Williams said he was approached by two men who demanded that he stop his research, threatening him with dire consequences if he didn't.  Others are keeping it alive.


Sterling D. Allan
Pure Energy Systems News

Joe Cell

USA -- A couple of weeks ago, Bill Williams told a discussion list that he successfully ran his truck on a device known as the Joe Cell.  The power was far greater than the regular combustion engine -- and the energy was free.

The Joe Cell is said to draw on Orgone energy.  The fairly simple device uses electrically charged water as the "gate" or medium through which the aetheric energy is drawn from the surroundings and transferred to the automobile engine.

Bill had posted images and rough descriptions, and was in process of disclosing in greater detail how he accomplished this, when he was confronted last week by two unidentified individuals who told him to cease all of his alternative energy work or there would be dire consequences.

On April 11, Bill gave the following account of what happened just a few days after announcing his success.

"I was on my way home Thursday last week [April 6, 2006] and was about 3 miles from the ferry project. I stopped to check the post connection point on the Cell. I was standing in front of my truck, and this late model 2005 or 2006 Ford Explorer pulled up and park diagonally in front of my truck.

"The driver got out of the rig and walked around in front of their rig and approached me. At about the same time, the passenger opened his door.

"The driver stated that they wanted me to stop working on all forms of alternative energy. He also stated that we know everything about me, my family, and all my projects past and present.

"At about that time the passenger reached and held up a file that was about 2 or so inches thick. He opened it up and showed me telephone transcripts, emails, messages from the groups that I had belonged to.

"They knew where my kids worked, the times they are at work; also my wife's working hours, my grandkids' school, etc.  They knew everything.

"The driver said that if I did not stop working on this (he then opened up the left side of his jacket and showed his weapon that was holstered) that there would be other consequences.

"He also stated that he wanted me to post that I was no longer working in this field and to destroy all my work, i.e. Cells, Drawings, Lab Journals, everything!

"At that point he walked around and got into the rig. I shut the hood and got the hell out of there. They followed me for about 2 miles and then must have turned off somewhere."

After a few days of contemplation, Bill decided to abide by the demands of those who threatened him. He destroyed the cell and all data and documentation and disabled the website on which he had posted plans.  Four days after that incident, Bill wrote the following message to the group:

"I thought I was strong but when illness to the family comes into play, I have failed. I am truly sorry. I will not be working in any form of alternative energy field anymore. [...]

"I destroyed my device tonight along with my written data and lab notes as per specked out."

Bill's Description of his Vehicle's Performance:

Before deciding to abide by the demands of those who threatened him, Bill gave the following report on April 6, 2006:

Report on the 70-mile test drive:

Well, all I can say is "who needs an Indy car when you can drive and old FORD" – WOW!!!! The first five-miles after leaving the home was wild. I had to be extremely careful on how I pressed the accelerator. I gingerly crept up to 45 MPH and that was about moving the pedal maybe a half-inch. It the throttle response was very crisp or touchy. With about a 1/8" of movement the next thing I new I was booking at close to 80 mph. If I lifted of ever so slightly on the throttle and it felt like I was putting the brakes on and the speed would drop down to 30 mph or so. "Very erratic". If I barely even touch or bumped the pedal it felt like I pushed the nitrous button. WOW !!!

As stated the first 5 miles were wild and things started to change. The engine started to buck or surge with very large rpm changes and literally threw me against my seat belt. It got so bad I just took my foot completely off the pedal and rode the brakes to stop the truck. The truck left skid marks on the pavement every time the engine surged in rpm. Well anyway I managed to get it stopped and shut it off with the ignition key, thank God.

I retarded the timing and turn the gasoline back on and crossed my fingers and hit the key and the engine took right off revving to may be 4000 rpm and then gradually decreased to 700 rpm. I took a deep breath and put it into drive and the truck responded close to normal again. [...]

Comments --- The current setup is not happening, I could not drive the truck in city driving, because I would be ramming the vehicles ahead of me and smoking the tires at every stop light. Still more work to do, and that is going to start this weekend. Converting the engine back to a 2-barrel carb (hell who needs a 4 barrel with this setup) so to gain more room to setup the blind fitting arrangement. Going to machine a flat Aluminium plate to set between the carb and the manifold. The adapter will be cut with a section on the front side of the carb projecting out and have a solid Aluminium stub. The stub will be where the Aluminium transfer tube will attach via a short section of hose. Will update the group after the adapter and conversion is in place and some basic testing has been accomplished. [...]

Regards, Bill

Others Picking up Where Bill Williams Left Off:

A few days ago, close associates who were incensed at what had be-fallen him, re-opened the Joe's Cell 2 Yahoogroups site, which Bill had been ordered to disable, and are now making sure as many interested people as possible have access to all relevant details.

The JoesCell2 group is for images.  A discussion list has been formed at JoeCellFreeEnergyDevice, also a Yahoo!Group.

An index page for this project is being created at PESWiki.

Others Have Succeeded:

Bill is not the only one to have achieved this accomplishment of running his vehicle on a Joe Cell.  John Carter, from Australia, estimates that there have been at least a dozen people who have achieved this -- running their vehicle on a Joe Cell.

Carter said he took a ride the other day in a Ford Econovan that Peter Stephens converted to run on a Joe Cell.  He said the car "rocketed up the hill" it had so much power.

A good number of people now know how to do this, and the plans are being made available in diverse places.

It would appear that Pandora's box has been opened on this, never to be shut.

Controversial History:

The Joe Cell has a checkered past.  Carter says that this is because a lot of people built it, but didn't know how to do it right, so there were a lot of failures in these replication attempts.  There are unusual properties that cause people to stumble because they want to do things in a traditional manner.

The technology is not new, but stretches back to as early as 1834, with a more recent stint through New Zealand, before it took root in Australia, and then spread worldwide.

Author's Personal Experience with a Joe Cell:

I have personally witnessed a modified Joe Cell technology in action.  It is an awesome sight to behold.  I wrote up that account in February, 2003.  It was not being used to run cars, but was being used to produce magnetically charged water for health benefits.


John Carter email correspondence with Bill Williams.
Phone conversation with John Carter, April 13, 2006.


Bill Williams <bill177 {at} >

Peter <ingnventor {at} > (Has ran his car on a Joe Cell, and is glad to help anyone else do the same.)

John Carter <johngc {at} > (Associate in Australia involved in the replication project.)
(April 14, 2006)

Modified Joe Cell Extracts Aetheric Energy to Charge Water

Device charges water electrically and magnetically.  Sets off Geiger counter when the aetheric energy beings to flow.


Sterling D. Allan
Pure Energy Systems News

Originally written July 28, 2002, this article had been made available on a limited basis to a few individuals. It describes a modified Joe cell technology that was called AquaMEGA. Vernon Roth is presently continuing this technology.

At night, when the upper cabinet is open for viewing, you can see deep blue lights along with and as bright as white lights streaking in from the top and up from the bottom of the bottle of water. These can't be seen except when it is quite dark.  It's like something out of science fiction.  The above image from another context gives you an idea.

The device that creates this aetheric/magnetic water "came to" the inventor in a dream six years ago.  It took him three days to build this device. It was actually initially intended to be a Tesla-like electrical generator that pulls energy from the aether.

As the inventor pulled together the various components of the device, he needed a resistor.  Being the resourceful guy that he is, he pulled out a glass of water and used that for the resistor.

To his amazement, the water took on magnetic and electrical-like properties.  He has used the device for that serendipitous purpose ever since.

Soon after getting the device built, it ceased running for quite some time.  It took him another three months to figure out how the machine worked and to get it to run yet again.

Even so, the machine has a "personality" all its own.  Sometimes, if someone comes into the premises who has highly negative emotions, the machine ceases to work.  People who are "sensitive" to "energies" get an unusual sensation when the machine is operating.

The inventor knows now that he needs to shield the machine so as to protect people from some of the nuclear particles that are emitted while it is in operation.  For the first two or three years, the inventor used to remark, "The machine is killing me, and the water is keeping me alive."

After the machine has been off for a while, when it is turned on, it takes about half a minute or so before the aetheric energies begin flowing.  Until they flow, the machine generates ozone.  Once the aetheric energies begin flowing, the adjoining Geiger counter immediately shows a strong reading from the alpha particles being emitted.  This transition takes place and is observable with no additional flipping of switches.  I was amazed to see it.

People in the vicinity are now protected by a cabinet that has water between two layers of aluminum casing. To achieve this shielding cabinet, the inventor adapted an incubator from a University science department.

The machine is in the bottom portion of the cabinet, and the bottles of water to be charged are situated in the upper cabinet.

The first piece of equipment in the device is a motor. He used a 3 horse-power motor simply because that is what was available at the time. He thinks a 1/2 or 1/3-horse-power motor would do the trick.

That first motor turns another motor which he adapted, and which is one of the proprietary components of the device. It entails a reconfiguration of the magnets and the coils so as to be able to pull in the aetheric energy.

Next in line is a Joe Cell.  For that, he took a motorcycle battery shell and adapted it (also proprietary) to the purpose specific to his device.   From there, a larger cable is run a few times around a hollow coil.  This "chokes" the aetheric energy so it doesn't burn up the device once the aetheric energies begin to flow.  That cable then runs outside the lower chamber of the cabinet and then into the upper chamber where it is connected to a metallic rod with a conical end that can be raised and lowered into position to within 1/4 to 1/2 inche above the water that is to be "charged."

At night, when the upper cabinet is open for viewing, you can see deep blue lights along with and as bright as white lights streaking in from the top and up from the bottom of the bottle of water. These can't be seen except when it is quite dark.  It's like something out of science fiction.

The inventor said that the aetheric energy is very slow compared to electricity that flows near the speed of light.  Judging from timing how long it takes the aetheric energy to run through his set-up, he estimates that the aetheric energy he is tapping flows at around 2-3 feet per second.

At some point, he plans to return to the task of adapting this incoming energy for use in our power grid.  It may be as simple as connecting it to a bank of capacitors and then running that through an inverter to convert that DC power into usable AC.

Eventually, through a smooth transition, he would like to see the AC power grid replaced by this more natural form of energy that is in harmony with life, not antithetical to it, as AC energy is.  The power grid that crisscrosses the land actually blocks the natural aetheric flows of energy through the earth; and when it gets to a critical point, surpassing the earths ability to buffer, we will see some fantastic calamities result.

He recommends that all AC wiring be run through the floors (then up to the outlets) and not through the walls, as is usually the case in construction.

Speaking of electricity, the power company has paid him a visit twice, wondering why he is only using $20.00 of electricity per month, even though he has a shop in his garage with heavy equipment.  They've checked his meter to make sure it is working right.  It is.

There was one time when he was developing the device that something very unusual happened regarding triggering breaker switches. One day, when he turned the device on, the power went out. He went to check the fuse box in his home, but none of the breakers were tripped. He then noticed down the road that the breaker on the power pole was tripped. The power company had to come out and re-set it.

There's something going on there that we do not fully understand yet.

To hold the cord going into the machine is a sensation in itself.  People call it the "fuzzy caterpillar."

Then there are the vortex storms he has over his house.  He's lost nearly 1/3 of the shingles on his roof to micro-bursts from storms centered over his house, complete with lightning.

One time he had a bunch of boxes in a fenced area prepared to burn them.  One of these storms came along, and the next morning the boxes were arranged in a circle around his house.

Another time, his friend was standing at the sink washing dishes, some 20 feet away from the machine.  When the machine cycled through one of its phases, suddenly she was no longer standing in front of the sink, but was standing outside in a field.  She saw people walking in the distance, and houses in the distance.  Then the machine cycled through the next phase and instantly she was standing at the sink once again.  My impression was that she was not moved through space but through time somehow.

These are amazing times in which we live.

Related Resource:

Vernon Roth is presently (2006) producing this water.  His website is .  He may be reached at 719-783-0310.
( April 16, 2006)

How to Run Your Car on a Joe Cell

Joe Cell Stretches the Believability Envelope with Working Replications

Explanation of the highly unusual technology and some of the astonishing claims surrounding it.  This fuelless technology could make gasoline and diesel obsolete, while not requiring a change of the engine infrastructure now in existence.


Sterling D. Allan, with Peter Stevens
Pure Energy Systems News

If you lived on a desert island and were never exposed to modern technology, what might you think the first time you witnessed such marvels as cordless phone communications, ground and air travel, running water, and so many other fascinating advancements?

The claim to cars running on energy harnessed and directed by a Joe cell are equally astonishing to one well versed in the latest and greatest technologies of our day. To just hear about it is nearly too much to believe if you believe in the limitations that apply to a fuel-based energy paradigm.

Imagine a device about five inches in diameter by ten inches long, with a tube running from it to a bolt on your engine. Your engine is running, but your fuel line is disconnected. Not only does the motor run, but it has far more power than it did when running on gasoline or diesel. And somehow the car responds to the accelerator, even though the fuel line is disconnected. That and other seemingly cognitive attributes of a Joe cell have spurred people to call it a "living cell."

Weird; very weird -- and exciting.

This device, which makes fueling up obsolete, can be built for less than $100 in parts.

According to some proponents, electricity is what is being conveyed here. Others have experimented with the vapour. And others refer to it as a function of frequencies. Others invoke the living energy called Orgone, discovered and named by Wilhelm Reich in the mid-twentieth century.

The extreme shift of thinking required drives some people to the head-in-the-sand, preserve-my-comfortable-conformity statement: "If it sounds too good to be true, then it probably is."

Yet the number of people claiming to have achieved success with this phenomenon is growing. And the instructions of how to do so are becoming more clear, spawning yet more success.

Add to this the reports of individuals who are threatened with death or some harm coming to a loved one if they don't stop, such as happened to Bill Williams on April 11, 2006. In the past, that has worked by isolating the victim. In today's globally-warmed climate of widespread ecological concern, such suppression attempts now seem to fuel the interest and involvement of others to replicate the phenomenon and report their success.

Those pioneers, with a strong preponderance residing in Australia, who have worked for years on this technology, deserve a lot of credit for their inventiveness to try various things, as well as their tenacity to not give up. Perhaps these inventors from the land “down under” gravitate to this phenomenon because it seems so up-side-down from standard physics. Having "Joe" in their midst probably contributes as well, though the technology is actually at least a couple of centuryies old and arrived in Australia by way of Graham Coe from New Zealand.

Sir William Groves patented the device in 1830. In 1926, Walter Russell showed in his periodic tables the abnormal energies associated with all matter. Many of his drawings illustrated this energy at work.

A number of websites and discussion groups are springing up to help assure the continuance and expansion of the technology worldwide. We have created a project page at PESWiki for this purpose, which you can find by going to

Guidelines for Successful Operation:

Peter Stevens, an Australian, has spent about fourteen years pursuing this technology. He installed a Joe cell on his Ford Econovan, with a modified V6 GMH engine. He helped Bill Williams (U.S.) get his truck running on a Joe Cell. Stevens is more than happy to help anyone figure out how to make their Joe cell work, and is glad to share what he knows with the world via the propagation made possible by the Internet.

The Joe Cell basically consists of several equally-spaced, concentric stainless steel cylinders, with water between them. Stevens recommends 3-1-6L, non-magnetic stainless steel. The number of cylinders and particular diameter and length of the cylinders do not seem to be crucial, though the ratios and proportionate spacing may be.

According to Stevens, the idea is to form a polarity on each cylinder, so that they are positive on the outside and negative on the inside at the lowest point. Some cells that leak or lose charge can be remedied and be maintained by a 1.5-volt battery, which is not drained in the process. It just serves as a potential (polarity) reference. Adding to the apparent quirkiness of the technology, Stevens has noted that this booster charge seems to be dependent on lunar cycles, and is not necessary during some moon phases. However, the comeback is that this is not quirkiness, but further evidence for the Electric Cosmos concept, in which all planets, moons, comets and stars are recognized as interacting electrically.

The connections of cylinders and caps and tubing generally need to be electrically insulated. However, standard insulating materials often don't work as they do with standard electrical processes but not with high-tension lead current.  Stevens recommends natural rubber, without the colourings. That and other additives seem to short out or bleed the frequencies.  This is an additional suggestion of a living energy at work; it is primarily life forms that are sensitive to additives in this way.  Ordinary electricity is a non-living force indifferent to such subtleties.

The central cylinder acts as the cathode tube. There is no positive lead coming from the cell. The cell does require charging to begin with for about 3-10 minutes. Stevens says that the central cathode is electrified up from the bottom insulated and the tube is in direct contact to the outside surface of the tube and not connected as some describe with a bolt wedged into the frequencies of energy from the cathode require negative to be on the outside. [Q / A]

He says a little machining needs to be done on the cathode tube, making a threaded bolt hub that is welded to the tube via an inert gas shield welder, or tig. The hub should also have a couple of holes in the base to allow water to flow within the tube. The hub can then be sealed at the base insulating material. Alternatively, washers can be made from a material like Teflon knife cutting boards. This ¾-inch (20 mm) clearing is also a spark gap to the body of the vehicle.

The jointing compound, marine-grade Sikaflex 291 should be used to make a water-tight seal between the cell and the mounting location. The hub is then able to support all the neutral tubes and allow for bolting to the car’s engine compartment. Don’t use silicon to seal. It breaks down and causes a mess that is difficult to clean up (requires a carbi cleaner).

The charge from the inside cell is conveyed from the Joe cell to the engine via a 1/2 inch (12mm) diameter aluminium tubing. The tubing is connected to the outside of the cell. It has positive potential and needs to be clear of any objects That tubing needs to stay clear by at least four inches from things such as the radiator hoses, fuel lines, electrical lines, and AC lines. The other end of that tube line can be attached to pretty much any blind or blank bolt on the engine. It needs to be insulated with a ½ to ¾-inch gap using plastic tubing so as to keep the positively-charged cell from shorting out.

If you can see the head of a bolt on top of the engine use it, so long as the aluminium line stays clear of the existing conducting lines in the engine compartment as just mentioned. There needs to be about a 3/4-inch gap between the line and the engine block for a "spark gap." The line can be connected to the bolt holding the air cleaner on the carburetor.

The line can be connected under the carburetor to the PCV if you wish to use vacuum pressure. In the process of learning about the Joe cell, Stevens said this is how they thought they needed to start the cell producing.  It results in a vary erratic response generally, and is difficult to tune.  It is critical to have the timing 68-73 degrees advanced with this configuration. [Q/A]

One of the videos in circulation shows an engine running as Joe is moving the high-tension lead from a spark plug along the engine with about a 1/2-inch gap. There is an arcing visible from the line to the engine block -- even into the radiator hose, air conditioning, fuel lines, and the Battery posts -- to show that the spark is a different frequency. This spark will jump into most things.

The fuel line to the car does not need to be disconnected, though it does need to be shut off. Stevens says that if the fuel line is not disconnected, then the frequency disrupts the efficient running of the engine.  He also recommends that an electric solenoid not be used in the fuel line, due to frequencies that it generates that conflict with the process.

Also, the timing on the engine needs to be advanced quite a bit. "On the crank about 80 degrees", says Stevens. "Some run at 70".

Then comes the final step of operation.

"To begin using the Cell it is best to arc off all the components --- negative to positive --- first at assembly then once together. Fill to the level of the tubes. Always put negative connection on the Joe Cell first. Then arc with positive 12 volts DC for three to ten minutes on the outside of the Joe cell. The engine should respond and start to accept the energy. Some gasket material absorbs the energy, but arcing the crank with a brush action to flash positive then negative will often overcome the barriers. Make sure you have a long screwdriver and hands clear, with an assistant rotating the motor on the start coil lead, disconnected, then all clear. Reconnect leads and happy driving."


Stevens says the Joe Cell could be made as small as a 35mm film container, which could run a 30cc brush cutter. He says a two-inch unit will run an ultra-light aircraft engine.

These instructions will continue to be expanded, clarified, upgraded, and illustrated at the site.

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